UKH

70m, 3 pitches. 3/4 Pitch. Winter. Probably best approached from below but can also be accessed 'over the top' from main gully area. Depends if a trail has been broken. P1 (4/5)heads up a well defined chimney. There is a handy spike to belay from below the chimney. Continue straight up through a slot to belay or move right and back left to make intricate move back to good stance. P2. (6)Head right wards using various flakes to a level. Take the corner direct (big hex useful) or move right up a tricky corner to arrive on blunt arĂȘte (all good pro), move back left into the corner with difficulty to arrive at the 'needles eye'. Enter using various techniques!!! Once inside, carry out a full body check and compose yourself. Continue out the back (obvious) via hooks etc to belay above. A fine body pumping pitch. P3.(6) Move towards the steep corner, passing various spikes. Move up the corner to a good spike before moving left again into the steep wider crack to easing ground.

Baggy/Stygle 29/Nov/2008.

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Route of Interest

Lockwood's Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)
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