88m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic outing, varied and interesting with a devious but logical line. Very popular and it only has a couple of hard sections - the hand traverse on P3 and the final pitch. Start directly above the large conspicuous block of The Capstan.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb up the rib and cross over left beneath some blocks. Climb up through these rightwards to a grassy ledge with a huge bollard.
2) 4a, 15. Climb the corner on the left then move delicately leftwards out across the face before striding round the arete to the jammed flake of The Arch. Belay further left.
3) 4b, 15m. Gain a ledge on the right then move up and swing across the hand-traverse to ledges above Gibson's Chimney. Continue to a good stance on the ledge of The Veranda.
4) 6m. Move the belay to the right-hand end of The Veranda to below the final corner.
4a) 18m. The Winter Finish, VDiff. A variant ending. Move left along the flakes and up the corner to the top.
5) 4c, 18m. Climb up right behind the large spike, then move back left to below the wide awkward Coffin Chimney and superb groove of Final Crack. Do battle with these and wonder at the pioneers who did it back in 1907! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch


Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate HS ticklist , The Ogwen 1000 , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Climbs I want do next , 2021 , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Roadtrip


User Date Notes
LakesWinter 28 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: HS not VS but a real classic
Show beta
βeta: HS not VS but a real classic

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 108
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 105
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mur y Niwl

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

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