UKH

Rockfax Description
This classic outing has some great scrambling and is usually climbed in combination with something else.
Getting to the start - Most start up The North Ridge of Tryfan and down The South Ridge of Tryfan to reach Bwlch Tryfan. You can also make a more leisurely approach up Cwm Tryfan, Heather Terrace or up past Cwm Bochlwyd to reach the same point without any other scrambling. From Bwlch Tryfan, go up a path on the western side that zig-zags up to the base of the buttresses at the start of Bristly Ridge.
1) Just in from the drystone wall is a line of weakness that leads up and right below the base of two gullies. Move back left and climb the left-hand gully which has some sustained sections - this is known as Sinister Gully. The right-hand gully is the harder and looser Dexter Gully and is best avoided.
2) Just before the end of initial buttress, make a tricky move up and left out of the gully to the edge and go up to the top of the buttress. A harder direct option can be taken here.
3) Easy scrambling leads up the more-defined ridge to the first of several pinnacles (the 'Bristles' in the name) which is passed on its right.
4) Continue up the ridge which is straightforward until the larger more dominating pinnacles.
5) Negotiating these pinnacles provides several interesting sections. At the first, go up and over the pinnacle near its left-hand side as you approach. This leads to an exposed gangway down to Great Pinnacle Gap.
6) The second pinnacle, known as Great Pinnacle, is passed more easily on its right-hand side to another col.
7) From the col, tackle the final steep section of ridge up to the summit plateau of Glyder Fach and a junction with the Eastern Gully of Glyder Fach.
8) Walk up to the summit from here. When you are just past a jumble of large boulders, look back to see the infamous Cantilever Stone.
Descent - Either head down the East Ridge of Glyder Fach or go over the summit and descend y Gribin. Or link-up with other scrambles like Senior's Ridge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton, North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith, 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge, Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves, Winter Scouting missions

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jones_Will_Climb 15 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Descent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Descent
Alexander_Metcalfe 2 Jul Show βeta
βeta: About half way up there's a huge loose piece of stone on the ridge that'll come down in the next storm, or from the feet of a careless punter.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: About half way up there's a huge loose piece of stone on the ridge that'll come down in the next storm, or from the feet of a careless punter.
BradDodd 25 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very very greasy, bottom section was the worst of it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very very greasy, bottom section was the worst of it
Rhys lewis 8 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sinister gully not fun to descend. Ensure nobody is coming up. As a lot of loose scree at the top section of the gully.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sinister gully not fun to descend. Ensure nobody is coming up. As a lot of loose scree at the top section of the gully.
d80f0u 26 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Has become horribly eroded at the base of the route (sinister gully), not that pleasant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has become horribly eroded at the base of the route (sinister gully), not that pleasant.

Logged Ascents

1719 users have logged this
70 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
High Grade-1
Mid Grade-1
Low Grade-1
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bryant's Gully

Grade: Grade-2 ***
(Glyder Fawr)
Loading Notifications...