74m, 4 pitches. All time classic.
This combination is best understood as two individual routes stacked on each other to form one double classic. 60m abseil from top or else descend via Expectancy abseil.

P. Kenny, R. Ohrtmann, F Winder 1953.

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star VS , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , VS Multipitches in Ireland , Multipitches

Feedback

User Date Notes
roisinc 6 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very busy crag today. Led first 1.5 pitches, anchored in last big crack below end of 2nd pitch. Bit tricky clipping the first peg if you're on the shorter side, tad runout after but holds are good. Great gear and holds all the way. Seconded last 2 pitches. Found the moves up from nightmare ledge harder esp last metre or so, than the step across, tho respect the airiness of it. Tough last pitch and great climb!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very busy crag today. Led first 1.5 pitches, anchored in last big crack below end of 2nd pitch. Bit tricky clipping the first peg if you're on the shorter side, tad runout after but holds are good. Great gear and holds all the way. Seconded last 2 pitches. Found the moves up from nightmare ledge harder esp last metre or so, than the step across, tho respect the airiness of it. Tough last pitch and great climb!
salix 17 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rain halfway up. Climbed with Kane and Tramp behind us.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rain halfway up. Climbed with Kane and Tramp behind us.
FOBrien1 7 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Took a wrong turn at the top of Nightmare crack and ended up doing the 5b crux of Vagabond, managed to move back into scimitar to top out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Took a wrong turn at the top of Nightmare crack and ended up doing the 5b crux of Vagabond, managed to move back into scimitar to top out

Logged Ascents

217 users have logged this
34 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Direct VS finish to great gully ridge

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Glenmalure)

Loading Notifications...