UKH

330m, 13 pitches. The best climb on the whole crag. The first 7 pitches lie more or less on the line of the left edge of the Buttress. The 8th pitch is the Milk Bottle - a shallow recessed slab visible from below.

1. 27m Climb straight up the steep slab on very small holds. Finish on a patch of vegetation. Move left for stance and belay.
2. 30m. Climb straight up on good holds to a vegetated ledge. Piton belay.
3. 12m Up to a small overhang. Jammed nut belay.
4. 15m Up to the right of a steep vegetated gully to a holly tree belay.
5. 15m Move left and climb the rib to a small vegetated ledge. Piton.
6. 22m Move left up the wall and right to a small ledge. Pull up overhanging edge on right, then more easily up slightly right to a grass ledge and piton belay.
7. 33m Step left and up directly to gain a grassy gully. Climb to the top of this gully and move out left onto a large grass ramp in the left of the Milk Bottle.
8. 27m (crux) Descend to the bottom of the grass ramp. Go around a corner and up a few feet to gain the wall on the right. Climb across the wall and up to the right on good holds to below the short overhanging corner (piton runner possible here). Climb the corner to gain a grassy ledge.
9. 21m Climb the slab, slanting right to a stance with belays in opposition. 10. 33m Climb straight up a series of ledges and slabs on good holds to a large grass ledge.
11. 30m Up fairly easy ground to gain the great ramp.
12. 30m Up the ramp on the left edge to the corner on the skyline.
13. 30m Up easily on slabs and ledges until the angle eases.

P. Kenny, A. Kopczinski, J. Morrison 17/Oct/1951.

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star D-HS, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

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