UKH

Rockfax Description
A long rising traverse in a superb position. Start 10m left of 'A' Route at a spike belay that is to the right of a large flake.
1) 10m. Make a straightforward rising traverse rightwards to a ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Traverse right to the 'The Forty Foot Corner' of 'A' Route and follow it to a belay at its end.
3) 20m. Take a right-leading crack to a ledge ('C' Route). Move across to gain the top of the corner on pitch 5 of 'B' Route. Follow the horizontal crack of 'B' Route to the good belay just around the arete - The Crow's Nest.
4) 16m. Pitch 6 of 'B' Route. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , "High & Wild" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Lake District Multipitch Diff , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan Bates 18 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Really good route, pitches 1 and 2 can be done easily as one pitch, as can 3 and 4
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really good route, pitches 1 and 2 can be done easily as one pitch, as can 3 and 4
CathS 11 Jul Show βeta
βeta: After doing this route 3 times now, I've come to the conclusion that the topo and route description for P2 in the FRCC guide (and Rockfax description here on UKC) is not correct. It doesn't seem possible to take a direct horizontal traverse all the way round to the 40 foot corner at anything like VDiff. The description of P2 in Judith Brown's 'Scrambles and Easy Climbs in the Lake District' makes more sense (and gets you up the pitch without difficulty): '(17 m) Traverse right from the ledge for about 6 m then make a couple of steep moves up a slight groove and out right to a small ledge. Just to the right is an obvious corner (40 foot corner). Climb this to sloping ledges and nut belays'. There is also a great video sequence of the route in this film, which helped me to work out the route-finding puzzle once and for all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VNT0y-zvro
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After doing this route 3 times now, I've come to the conclusion that the topo and route description for P2 in the FRCC guide (and Rockfax description here on UKC) is not correct. It doesn't seem possible to take a direct horizontal traverse all the way round to the 40 foot corner at anything like VDiff. The description of P2 in Judith Brown's 'Scrambles and Easy Climbs in the Lake District' makes more sense (and gets you up the pitch without difficulty): '(17 m) Traverse right from the ledge for about 6 m then make a couple of steep moves up a slight groove and out right to a small ledge. Just to the right is an obvious corner (40 foot corner). Climb this to sloping ledges and nut belays'. There is also a great video sequence of the route in this film, which helped me to work out the route-finding puzzle once and for all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VNT0y-zvro

Logged Ascents

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High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tower Buttress

Grade: VD ***
(Black Crag (Gable & Pillar))

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