On approaching the crag, the first towering rib is the setting for this classic expedition. The climbing is sustained and intricate but reasonably protected. The line is described here with the direct start. Start at a well-defined leftward-slanting crack just above the gearing-up spot.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb the slanting crack past a small overhang and continue before moving leftwards to a belay beneath an overhung corner.
2) 13m. The Bracket. Move up and then traverse awkwardly rightwards for 6m passing blocks, until a weakness can be followed back left to a stance and belay.
3) 25m. Climb rightwards up easy ground to the right-hand side of a steep corner (Amen Corner). Move up rightwards until a crack leads to easy-angled ground (The Gangway). Traverse right to a stance below a steep chimney/crack.
4) 4b, 8m. Climb the chimney/crack with difficulty to a good ledge and belay.
5) 20m. Move out leftwards from the chimney to the face on its left and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
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