Rockfax Description
On approaching the crag, the first towering rib is the setting for this classic expedition. The climbing is sustained and intricate but reasonably protected. The line is described here with the direct start. Start at a well-defined leftward-slanting crack just above the gearing-up spot.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb the slanting crack past a small overhang and continue before moving leftwards to a belay beneath an overhung corner.
2) 13m. The Bracket. Move up and then traverse awkwardly rightwards for 6m passing blocks, until a weakness can be followed back left to a stance and belay.
3) 25m. Climb rightwards up easy ground to the right-hand side of a steep corner (Amen Corner). Move up rightwards until a crack leads to easy-angled ground (The Gangway). Traverse right to a stance below a steep chimney/crack.
4) 4b, 8m. Climb the chimney/crack with difficulty to a good ledge and belay.
5) 20m. Move out leftwards from the chimney to the face on its left and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Langdale 3* Severes , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , UK Holiday Plans , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , Lakes ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GrahamUney | 6 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This description and on Rockfax is for the VS alternative start and finish. This isn't the same as the original Bracket and Slab, which remains Severe, rather than VS. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: This description and on Rockfax is for the VS alternative start and finish. This isn't the same as the original Bracket and Slab, which remains Severe, rather than VS. |
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| nickpierpoint | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: For pitch 2 in Rockfax, the description is good but the topo line on the photo is wrong. The description correctly says to go straight up then traverse right, but the topo line has you cutting the corner of the right traverse. Ignore the line in Rockfax and follow the description - much more natural route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: For pitch 2 in Rockfax, the description is good but the topo line on the photo is wrong. The description correctly says to go straight up then traverse right, but the topo line has you cutting the corner of the right traverse. Ignore the line in Rockfax and follow the description - much more natural route. |
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| AliRLee | 3 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: I found the RockFax description to be fine... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I found the RockFax description to be fine... |
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| Matt Alexander | 23 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: P2 and P3 on the Rockfax topo does not match the description. If you finish p1 at the abseil point on the grass ledge and then follow the description for p2 you will be in the right place. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P2 and P3 on the Rockfax topo does not match the description. If you finish p1 at the abseil point on the grass ledge and then follow the description for p2 you will be in the right place. |
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| LakesWinter | 1 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: The direct start is not the start of the route. There is no way that Bracket and Slab is VS - it climbs like a severe, must be a severe. It's a class route but fine at Severe. Routes like Mendes, The Crack or Rake End Wall to pick some Langdale examples are way harder and someone getting on one of these after doing Bracket and Slab as a fake VS would have a lot of trouble. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The direct start is not the start of the route. There is no way that Bracket and Slab is VS - it climbs like a severe, must be a severe. It's a class route but fine at Severe. Routes like Mendes, The Crack or Rake End Wall to pick some Langdale examples are way harder and someone getting on one of these after doing Bracket and Slab as a fake VS would have a lot of trouble. |
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| simondgee | 9 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Where has VS come from? Bench mark S 4b | ||
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βeta: Where has VS come from? Bench mark S 4b |
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| C Witter | 15 Dec, 2019 |
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βeta: Not sure why this classic Severe has had a dodgy re-grade to VS. Is this inline with the "new" Rockfax Lakes guide? It now says in the description that it is described with "the direct start". It's a bit annoying to have Rockfax piss around changing an entry do many people have ticked, especially when there is already a separate direct start entry... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure why this classic Severe has had a dodgy re-grade to VS. Is this inline with the "new" Rockfax Lakes guide? It now says in the description that it is described with "the direct start". It's a bit annoying to have Rockfax piss around changing an entry do many people have ticked, especially when there is already a separate direct start entry... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gimmer Crag
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Haste Not
Grade: VS 4c ***
(White Ghyll)