UKH

Rockfax Description
A fine buttress climb that wends it way up the centre of the crag.
The climbing is interesting although there are easy passages between the harder sections. Start just right of the toe of the buttress, 5m right of the large gully.
1) 30m. Climb the wall and move left to a square recess. From the top of the recess, head right up a ramp to a small spike and transfer to the ramp above it. Now move rightwards to the end of the ramp and a small stance and belay.
2) 40m. Make some cramped traverse moves left to reach easy ground after 7m. Follow easy-angled ground up ledges and a wide corner to below a vertical wall. Traverse left on ledges to a good stance under a steep corner.
3) 16m. Climb the steep corner and move right to a good stance at its top.
4) 30m. On the right is a short, steep, open corner. Climb this boldly to a ledge above it. Now take a long easy corner to a ledge and belay at a flake that leans against the wall.
5) 4a, 45m. A long pitch. From the top of the flake, step up left and climb a difficult groove that eventually gains easier ground.
Climb up to a narrow corner and take this to its end and a stance and belay.
6) 20m. Scramble up easy ground to the top of the crag. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, One day multipitch, The Long Routes, Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
EmmaB36 16 Oct Show βeta
βeta: A few tricky moments, but Otherwise good, simple but fun climbing. Loose flake on pitch 5 right where it's tempting to use it!
Show beta
βeta: A few tricky moments, but Otherwise good, simple but fun climbing. Loose flake on pitch 5 right where it's tempting to use it!
Ab Wilson 8 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Walk in from Honister: Take the obvious path straight up the hilll by the fence sign posted Grey Knots. When you pass some rock outcrops near the top of the steep section head left and pick up a faint path contouring round until you can see the crag. The route starts just beyond the lowest continuous rock you can see from this point. Continue contouring round to reach it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Walk in from Honister: Take the obvious path straight up the hilll by the fence sign posted Grey Knots. When you pass some rock outcrops near the top of the steep section head left and pick up a faint path contouring round until you can see the crag. The route starts just beyond the lowest continuous rock you can see from this point. Continue contouring round to reach it.
Johnhi 27 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Bold section on P4 can be protected by a small wire in a horizontal crack around the arete to the right. Much better than first appearance.
Show beta
βeta: Bold section on P4 can be protected by a small wire in a horizontal crack around the arete to the right. Much better than first appearance.
1-2-3-40 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed together with 30 m of rope between us, great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed together with 30 m of rope between us, great fun.
Ian Stirrups 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Jess lead all but a bit of the initial slab & final scramble
Show beta
βeta: Jess lead all but a bit of the initial slab & final scramble

Logged Ascents

1384 users have logged this
197 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 172
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
Votes cast 144
Votes cast 167
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Oxford and Cambridge Direct Route

Grade: S 4a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))
Loading Notifications...