One of the new wave of super sport routes of exceptional quality on perfect granite-esque dolerite. It has four distinct cruxes - apparently a bit like a 7a+ version of The Plum at Tremadog. Abseil down The Bone People with a 60m rope and swing in to the bottom of the route. The route has been equipped with an intermediate abseil anchor so that it is possible to climb on a single 50m rope with some careful ropework. The lower slab suffers from seepage and it would be a good idea to take a brush. Start at the base of a narrow ramp/groove behind the huge boulder. Climbing up the ramp/groove to a hard move leftwards across the top of the slab. Pull through the roof and traverse back right. Technical moves lead to a blind reach above the roof. Make a sideways dyno to a jug, then move up the rib and the slab towards an overlap. Difficult moves through this lead to delicate climbing left across the upper slab until below the final groove. A final long reach and a stiff pull if you are tall, or more technical climbing for the short, leads to a bolted abseil anchor. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb long sport route with good varied climbing on solid dolerite. 4 cruxes and interesting until the last move. Start at the base of a narrow ramp/groove next to the giant boulder to the left of Bone People. Abseil off, route is equipped with an intermediate ab anchor for climbing on a single 50m rope.
Pete Harrison 21/May/2010.
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