Rockfax Description
A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, the easier (HVS 5b ) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger-crack splitting the nose. Layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this, trending slightly right in a great position. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1956.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , E1's
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| thebigfriendlymoose | 8 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Presumably the E1 5c grade is for coming in from the RHS roof crack on undercuts / small crimps? A tad eliminate but more than made up for by the lovely barndoor move to gain the jugs around the corner. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Presumably the E1 5c grade is for coming in from the RHS roof crack on undercuts / small crimps? A tad eliminate but more than made up for by the lovely barndoor move to gain the jugs around the corner. |
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| Ropeboy | 7 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Hard climbing (poor on footholds) lead to the meat of route. Good route which ever start you take. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard climbing (poor on footholds) lead to the meat of route. Good route which ever start you take. |
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| MNA123 | 28 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Hard, climbed it on a top rope, which i'm glad about, cause i wouldn't be writting this if i hadn't. Pumpy, i found the found the start the hardest bit, as i'm short and it's quite reachy, but theres a hard move up near the top as well. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard, climbed it on a top rope, which i'm glad about, cause i wouldn't be writting this if i hadn't. Pumpy, i found the found the start the hardest bit, as i'm short and it's quite reachy, but theres a hard move up near the top as well. |
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| Duncan I | 2 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: There's nothing wrong with the "cop-out moves", it's still a fine route. Having done both starts, you still get 10 m of very sustained and wobbly 5b with some quite worrying moves so three-stars whichever way. The Direct Start is a stunner though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's nothing wrong with the "cop-out moves", it's still a fine route. Having done both starts, you still get 10 m of very sustained and wobbly 5b with some quite worrying moves so three-stars whichever way. The Direct Start is a stunner though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gardom's Edge
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Sunset Creek
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wildcat)