60m, 2 pitches.
At the left hand side of the buttress and left of the prominent overhang is a tree. This route takes the obvious corner above this with initial moves over large overhanging blocks.
1. 25m 4c Climb the corner directly then beyond a little to where it runs out. Belay at an obvious cut holly tree under the large overhang.
2. 25m 5b Climb the off width crack (as for Jamaica Plain) to the roof, traverse right under the roof to a ledge. From the far end of the ledge, climb straight up to Burnt Ledge.
Most parties continue up Burnt Ledge to the top of the crag
1. 25m 4c Climb the corner directly then beyond a little to where it runs out. Belay at an obvious cut holly tree under the large overhang.
2. 25m 5b Climb the off width crack (as for Jamaica Plain) to the roof, traverse right under the roof to a ledge. From the far end of the ledge, climb straight up to Burnt Ledge.
Most parties continue up Burnt Ledge to the top of the crag
G Sexton, Con Moriarty 25/Aug/1990.
Ticklists
Ireland 3 Star E1-E2 , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , The Gap E1-E5
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Route of Interest
STINKY PHOO
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dunshean Head)