50m, 2 pitches.
Another brilliant route at an amenable grade.
1. (25m, 4c) Start as for Meltdown. After 3m move right to a large ledge. Traverse right along the top of the ramp to a vertical fist crack. Climb this and the corner above to under the overhang. Move left and up to a ledge and then right to under the upper overhang (awkward). Move up and left to the meltdown belay ledge (small to medium cams).
2. (25m, 4c) From the belay move right and up. Climb the middle of the wide black water streak following ledges and thin cracks and passing a small wedged block immediately to the left. After the wedged block gain the crack system on the right and follow this to under the overhang that crosses the whole face. Step right and then up and left
1. (25m, 4c) Start as for Meltdown. After 3m move right to a large ledge. Traverse right along the top of the ramp to a vertical fist crack. Climb this and the corner above to under the overhang. Move left and up to a ledge and then right to under the upper overhang (awkward). Move up and left to the meltdown belay ledge (small to medium cams).
2. (25m, 4c) From the belay move right and up. Climb the middle of the wide black water streak following ledges and thin cracks and passing a small wedged block immediately to the left. After the wedged block gain the crack system on the right and follow this to under the overhang that crosses the whole face. Step right and then up and left
A. Forde, I. Sheahan 13/Jul/1996.
Ticklists
Ireland 3 Star VS , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches
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Route of Interest
Banana Split
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dunshean Head)