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12m.

Rockfax Description
The easy crack leads to a bulge split by a thin crack. Reach for a jug above, then heave away to easy ground. The route is rather unbalanced, low in the grade and a popular first VS lead. © Rockfax

FA. Wilf White 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Consolidation and developmental path to VS, The Gritlist

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User Date Notes
Dave Garnett 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I've done this quite a few times over the years but it definitely felt tricky this time. The current chockstone does move, which is unsettling, and in my book it's a gymnastic 5a pull to get your foot high. Perfectly protected though.
 
Show beta
βeta: I've done this quite a few times over the years but it definitely felt tricky this time. The current chockstone does move, which is unsettling, and in my book it's a gymnastic 5a pull to get your foot high. Perfectly protected though.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this early on under the impression that it was Trapeze. I think it's much harder now that there is less of the moving spike, 4c & not a soft touch any more
βeta?
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βeta: Soloed this early on under the impression that it was Trapeze. I think it's much harder now that there is less of the moving spike, 4c & not a soft touch any more
ste 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: what's this chocstone evreyone is on about. it felt like a 5a one move wonder but nothing woblled or moved, it was all solid. is the chocstone now a piece of rubble at the bottom of the carg?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: what's this chocstone evreyone is on about. it felt like a 5a one move wonder but nothing woblled or moved, it was all solid. is the chocstone now a piece of rubble at the bottom of the carg?
Si dH 25 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the "jug" (or chockstone) does indeed move, although doesnt look like its coming out at the moment. Definitely not easer for the short! Im about 5-11 so good height, but if id had another 4 inches it would have been very easy, i couldnt quite reach the good hold without a balacy push on a foot-jam over the bulge. Definitely 4c but perhaps HS?
βeta?
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βeta: the "jug" (or chockstone) does indeed move, although doesnt look like its coming out at the moment. Definitely not easer for the short! Im about 5-11 so good height, but if id had another 4 inches it would have been very easy, i couldnt quite reach the good hold without a balacy push on a foot-jam over the bulge. Definitely 4c but perhaps HS?
Simon Caldwell 26 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently a missing chockstone has been 'replaced', reducing the grade to HS 4b. Or so I'm told.
βeta?
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βeta: Apparently a missing chockstone has been 'replaced', reducing the grade to HS 4b. Or so I'm told.
shaun walby 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Was expecting something a bit tricky, but have to say was one of the easiest VS ive done. I dont think its a 4c move, maybe i was having a good day but 4a/4b in my humble opinion would be more fitting. Agree with an earlier comment,if you can do that type of move it's easy, if you lack a bit of power and balance it will feel hard and poss spit you out onto excellant gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Was expecting something a bit tricky, but have to say was one of the easiest VS ive done. I dont think its a 4c move, maybe i was having a good day but 4a/4b in my humble opinion would be more fitting. Agree with an earlier comment,if you can do that type of move it's easy, if you lack a bit of power and balance it will feel hard and poss spit you out onto excellant gear.
ceri 15 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: led in the sunshine as first VS lead. Very disappointed. How on earth is that VS. 1 slightly strenuous move which is bomber protected in a generally severe route??? Found Green gut more sustained, with similar levels of gear and difficulty, and some people think that is severe. Have to find another VS now before i think i've really climbed VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: led in the sunshine as first VS lead. Very disappointed. How on earth is that VS. 1 slightly strenuous move which is bomber protected in a generally severe route??? Found Green gut more sustained, with similar levels of gear and difficulty, and some people think that is severe. Have to find another VS now before i think i've really climbed VS.
chris j 9 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Since the block came out (x years ago??) its not as cuxy & a better route. Barely VS or 4c. Solid gear at the crux.
βeta?
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βeta: Since the block came out (x years ago??) its not as cuxy & a better route. Barely VS or 4c. Solid gear at the crux.
Skyfall 18 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Surprised no comments on this one as regularky see queues for it. It's a one-move wonder but good fun at that. It's hard or easy at VS depending upon whether you can do the move. Place gear and lay-back through the bulge facing right, committing but it works. A good, safe VS tick however you do it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Surprised no comments on this one as regularky see queues for it. It's a one-move wonder but good fun at that. It's hard or easy at VS depending upon whether you can do the move. Place gear and lay-back through the bulge facing right, committing but it works. A good, safe VS tick however you do it.

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Route of Interest

Phoenix Climb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Shining Clough)