UKH Hills - 'Trapeze Direct'

12m.

Rockfax Description
The easy crack leads to a bulge split by a thin crack. Reach for a jug above, then heave to easy ground. The route is unbalanced, low in the grade and a popular first VS lead. © Rockfax

FA. Wilf White 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , Froggatt and Curbar VSs

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User	Date		Notes
milanboez	15 Oct	Show βeta βeta: HVD 5a in my mind	βeta?
Show beta βeta: HVD 5a in my mind
woody32259	22 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Yoga finally paying off
Show beta βeta: Yoga finally paying off
Dave Garnett	15 Apr, 2019	Show βeta βeta: I've done this quite a few times over the years but it definitely felt tricky this time. The current chockstone does move, which is unsettling, and in my book it's a gymnastic 5a pull to get your foot high. Perfectly protected though.
Show beta βeta: I've done this quite a few times over the years but it definitely felt tricky this time. The current chockstone does move, which is unsettling, and in my book it's a gymnastic 5a pull to get your foot high. Perfectly protected though.
Iain Thow	17 Mar, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Soloed this early on under the impression that it was Trapeze. I think it's much harder now that there is less of the moving spike, 4c & not a soft touch any more	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Soloed this early on under the impression that it was Trapeze. I think it's much harder now that there is less of the moving spike, 4c & not a soft touch any more
ste	18 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: what's this chocstone evreyone is on about. it felt like a 5a one move wonder but nothing woblled or moved, it was all solid. is the chocstone now a piece of rubble at the bottom of the carg?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: what's this chocstone evreyone is on about. it felt like a 5a one move wonder but nothing woblled or moved, it was all solid. is the chocstone now a piece of rubble at the bottom of the carg?
Si dH	25 Aug, 2004	Show βeta βeta: the "jug" (or chockstone) does indeed move, although doesnt look like its coming out at the moment. Definitely not easer for the short! Im about 5-11 so good height, but if id had another 4 inches it would have been very easy, i couldnt quite reach the good hold without a balacy push on a foot-jam over the bulge. Definitely 4c but perhaps HS?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: the "jug" (or chockstone) does indeed move, although doesnt look like its coming out at the moment. Definitely not easer for the short! Im about 5-11 so good height, but if id had another 4 inches it would have been very easy, i couldnt quite reach the good hold without a balacy push on a foot-jam over the bulge. Definitely 4c but perhaps HS?
Simon Caldwell	26 Sep, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Apparently a missing chockstone has been 'replaced', reducing the grade to HS 4b. Or so I'm told.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Apparently a missing chockstone has been 'replaced', reducing the grade to HS 4b. Or so I'm told.
shaun walby	15 Sep, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Was expecting something a bit tricky, but have to say was one of the easiest VS ive done. I dont think its a 4c move, maybe i was having a good day but 4a/4b in my humble opinion would be more fitting. Agree with an earlier comment,if you can do that type of move it's easy, if you lack a bit of power and balance it will feel hard and poss spit you out onto excellant gear.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Was expecting something a bit tricky, but have to say was one of the easiest VS ive done. I dont think its a 4c move, maybe i was having a good day but 4a/4b in my humble opinion would be more fitting. Agree with an earlier comment,if you can do that type of move it's easy, if you lack a bit of power and balance it will feel hard and poss spit you out onto excellant gear.
chris j	9 Apr, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Since the block came out (x years ago??) its not as cuxy & a better route. Barely VS or 4c. Solid gear at the crux.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Since the block came out (x years ago??) its not as cuxy & a better route. Barely VS or 4c. Solid gear at the crux.
Skyfall	18 Mar, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Surprised no comments on this one as regularky see queues for it. It\'s a one-move wonder but good fun at that. It\'s hard or easy at VS depending upon whether you can do the move. Place gear and lay-back through the bulge facing right, committing but it works. A good, safe VS tick however you do it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Surprised no comments on this one as regularky see queues for it. It's a one-move wonder but good fun at that. It's hard or easy at VS depending upon whether you can do the move. Place gear and lay-back through the bulge facing right, committing but it works. A good, safe VS tick however you do it.