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14m.

Rockfax Description
THE route of the slab has long had a contentious grade, chiefly used to warn the uninitiated. With a good runner in the right place it would be nearer Hard Severe! From the initial crack, trend left across sloping ledges to a flake and teeter up this. The crux is a move higher than you might want. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1948.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Brown star climbs, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, AMC Uni Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The V.S.+ Ticklist, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Memorable Climbs, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), The Gritlist, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

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User Date Notes
James Painter 8 Nov Show βeta
βeta: Managed to get a 0.3 zero in one of the pockets, not sure it would of held though.
βeta?
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βeta: Managed to get a 0.3 zero in one of the pockets, not sure it would of held though.
Toops 6 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Can’t protect the top, easy but scary!
βeta?
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βeta: Can’t protect the top, easy but scary!
JayW 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Managed to get a good wire in about half way then magically a green dragonfly in at the flake. It felt more like a psychologically placement that definitely wouldn't hold a fall but when Cole seconded it and pulled it it wouldn't come out.
 
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βeta: Managed to get a good wire in about half way then magically a green dragonfly in at the flake. It felt more like a psychologically placement that definitely wouldn't hold a fall but when Cole seconded it and pulled it it wouldn't come out.
Beanmanclimb 9 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Took too long to commit to each move at the top but was all easy
βeta?
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βeta: Took too long to commit to each move at the top but was all easy
Bryku21 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found a tiny placement of a totem before the crux.
 
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βeta: Found a tiny placement of a totem before the crux.
Adrian Berry 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The big pocket mentioned in the description as a likely cam placement will actually take a fairly reasonable Camalot 3 - it takes a bit of playing around, but I've placed worse gear. With this on one rope and a Zero on another - a fall might just be thinkable - would be a fun experiment. As for the grade: if the last moves are 6a rather than 4b(?) it would be E6, so logically it's E1 - surely? ;-)
 
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βeta: The big pocket mentioned in the description as a likely cam placement will actually take a fairly reasonable Camalot 3 - it takes a bit of playing around, but I've placed worse gear. With this on one rope and a Zero on another - a fall might just be thinkable - would be a fun experiment. As for the grade: if the last moves are 6a rather than 4b(?) it would be E6, so logically it's E1 - surely? ;-)
aulda 23 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Fun route - all in the head. Pretty pointless taking up gear except for setting up belay at the top.
βeta?
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βeta: Fun route - all in the head. Pretty pointless taking up gear except for setting up belay at the top.
LakesWinter 12 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I was too scared to do this one for years! But everyone is right, the moves are easier than they look and feel really positive. A pleasant climb and probably VS 4b really
βeta?
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βeta: I was too scared to do this one for years! But everyone is right, the moves are easier than they look and feel really positive. A pleasant climb and probably VS 4b really
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not HVS surely? Ok there's no gear, but you're not very likely to fall off with modern rock shoes. HS/VS
βeta?
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βeta: Not HVS surely? Ok there's no gear, but you're not very likely to fall off with modern rock shoes. HS/VS
craigswoods 29 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this before TPS and enjoyed it a lot more. Did try fiddling my smallest cam in below the flake but it was too big. Just have to trust your feet.
 
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βeta: Did this before TPS and enjoyed it a lot more. Did try fiddling my smallest cam in below the flake but it was too big. Just have to trust your feet.
Mr Pink 2 12 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My point was that the gear in the flake is almost certainly not going to hold. A steady head is all that is required to make this climb safe.
βeta?
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βeta: My point was that the gear in the flake is almost certainly not going to hold. A steady head is all that is required to make this climb safe.
Mr Pink 2 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: HVS leaders will find this very easy. It's still an excellent route though, and is much easier than it looks. It's definitely not worth pissing around with micro-cams, if you think you may fall off then this probably isn't the route for you!
βeta?
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βeta: HVS leaders will find this very easy. It's still an excellent route though, and is much easier than it looks. It's definitely not worth pissing around with micro-cams, if you think you may fall off then this probably isn't the route for you!
gwilym 29 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm fairly certin you could protect the crux with a tricam in the far pocket to the left of the crux, I was soloing so I can't be sure
 
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βeta: I'm fairly certin you could protect the crux with a tricam in the far pocket to the left of the crux, I was soloing so I can't be sure
Si dH 19 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this today, very nice. But has anyone tried to put any gear in? Looking at the flake it looked like it would take a half-decent zero 4 or so to protect the crux.
βeta?
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βeta: Soloed this today, very nice. But has anyone tried to put any gear in? Looking at the flake it looked like it would take a half-decent zero 4 or so to protect the crux.
andybuckley 13 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This wee beastie had me very psyched-out for a long time. In the end I warmed up by soloing everything around it (at least the non-crazy-hard ones) and then going for it. It felt easy, but so good :-)
βeta?
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βeta: This wee beastie had me very psyched-out for a long time. In the end I warmed up by soloing everything around it (at least the non-crazy-hard ones) and then going for it. It felt easy, but so good :-)
Gripped 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Heart ticklingly good!
βeta?
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βeta: Heart ticklingly good!
Knitted Simian 13 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route - did it in February and almost fell off from shivering - trust the friction and all will be well. Agree, a nice solo.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route - did it in February and almost fell off from shivering - trust the friction and all will be well. Agree, a nice solo.
Colin Scotchford 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I led this about 12 years ago looking for my first VS lead, The Paul Nunn selected Peak guide told me it was VS; terrible thing this grade inflation
βeta?
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βeta: I led this about 12 years ago looking for my first VS lead, The Paul Nunn selected Peak guide told me it was VS; terrible thing this grade inflation
Simon Caldwell 27 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nonsense, Technical Slab is now very well protected using Friends.
βeta?
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βeta: Nonsense, Technical Slab is now very well protected using Friends.
leon 26 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Technical Slab at the Roaches is just as unprotected till 30 or 40 foot and is HS 4b. Seemed more like an HS 4b to me -the feeling of exposure wasn't that great.
βeta?
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βeta: Technical Slab at the Roaches is just as unprotected till 30 or 40 foot and is HS 4b. Seemed more like an HS 4b to me -the feeling of exposure wasn't that great.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Effectively a solo but you might as well place some gear for the hardish moves up to the crack. Take some gear up so you can set up a belay up for less suicidal climbers.
βeta?
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βeta: Effectively a solo but you might as well place some gear for the hardish moves up to the crack. Take some gear up so you can set up a belay up for less suicidal climbers.
r@bag 1 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This is a really fun climb. However, the rain came down as I was climbing, luckily there was a tiny piece of friction left underneath the unprotected crack/flake thing at the top!!! I'd guess it's best tried when cool and dry.
βeta?
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βeta: This is a really fun climb. However, the rain came down as I was climbing, luckily there was a tiny piece of friction left underneath the unprotected crack/flake thing at the top!!! I'd guess it's best tried when cool and dry.
Jus 19 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: quality route, nicely delicate
βeta?
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βeta: quality route, nicely delicate
Robo 27 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Easy really. Careful foot placement makes it feel secure. I wasn't worried at all, despite the runout.
βeta?
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βeta: Easy really. Careful foot placement makes it feel secure. I wasn't worried at all, despite the runout.
AndrewHuddart 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The perfect friction slab. Not really worth putting a rope on for though. Belief in your shoes, trust of friction and a good calm head will get you through!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The perfect friction slab. Not really worth putting a rope on for though. Belief in your shoes, trust of friction and a good calm head will get you through!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 423
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 404
Votes cast 395
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

East Rib

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)