Rockfax Description
THE route of the slab has long had a contentious grade, chiefly used to warn the uninitiated. With a good runner in the right place it would be nearer Hard Severe! From the initial crack, trend left across sloping ledges to a flake and teeter up this. The crux is a move higher than you might want. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1948.
Ticklists
Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Brown star climbs , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The V.S.+ Ticklist , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist) , The Gritlist , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Grit solos hvs -e3 , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Slab Dreams , Jaimey's tricky slab list , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| edmunek | 19 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: attempted to lead this one with gear. went through the first move up, slowly traversed, found no gear placement, went back right and finished as a different route. 20 minutes later decided to check it as top rope, once checked, went solo as found that there is no point of dragging any rope or gear | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: attempted to lead this one with gear. went through the first move up, slowly traversed, found no gear placement, went back right and finished as a different route. 20 minutes later decided to check it as top rope, once checked, went solo as found that there is no point of dragging any rope or gear |
||||
| miguelboland | 18 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Turns out micro cam placements high up would rip out quite easily! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Turns out micro cam placements high up would rip out quite easily! |
||||
| iambalaam | 9 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Size 1 tricam may or may not protect the last moves | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Size 1 tricam may or may not protect the last moves |
||||
| Jimp97 | 8 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Managed to get a 0.3 zero in one of the pockets, not sure it would of held though. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Managed to get a 0.3 zero in one of the pockets, not sure it would of held though. |
||||
| Toops | 6 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can’t protect the top, easy but scary! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can’t protect the top, easy but scary! |
||||
| JayW | 10 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Managed to get a good wire in about half way then magically a green dragonfly in at the flake. It felt more like a psychologically placement that definitely wouldn't hold a fall but when Cole seconded it and pulled it it wouldn't come out. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Managed to get a good wire in about half way then magically a green dragonfly in at the flake. It felt more like a psychologically placement that definitely wouldn't hold a fall but when Cole seconded it and pulled it it wouldn't come out. |
||||
| climberclimber321 | 9 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Took too long to commit to each move at the top but was all easy | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Took too long to commit to each move at the top but was all easy |
||||
| Bryku21 | 17 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found a tiny placement of a totem before the crux. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Found a tiny placement of a totem before the crux. |
||||
| Adrian Berry | 5 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The big pocket mentioned in the description as a likely cam placement will actually take a fairly reasonable Camalot 3 - it takes a bit of playing around, but I've placed worse gear. With this on one rope and a Zero on another - a fall might just be thinkable - would be a fun experiment. As for the grade: if the last moves are 6a rather than 4b(?) it would be E6, so logically it's E1 - surely? ;-) | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The big pocket mentioned in the description as a likely cam placement will actually take a fairly reasonable Camalot 3 - it takes a bit of playing around, but I've placed worse gear. With this on one rope and a Zero on another - a fall might just be thinkable - would be a fun experiment. As for the grade: if the last moves are 6a rather than 4b(?) it would be E6, so logically it's E1 - surely? ;-) |
||||
| aulda | 23 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fun route - all in the head. Pretty pointless taking up gear except for setting up belay at the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fun route - all in the head. Pretty pointless taking up gear except for setting up belay at the top. |
||||
| LakesWinter | 12 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I was too scared to do this one for years! But everyone is right, the moves are easier than they look and feel really positive. A pleasant climb and probably VS 4b really | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I was too scared to do this one for years! But everyone is right, the moves are easier than they look and feel really positive. A pleasant climb and probably VS 4b really |
||||
| Glen | 17 Mar, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not HVS surely? Ok there's no gear, but you're not very likely to fall off with modern rock shoes. HS/VS | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not HVS surely? Ok there's no gear, but you're not very likely to fall off with modern rock shoes. HS/VS |
||||
| craigswoods | 29 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did this before TPS and enjoyed it a lot more. Did try fiddling my smallest cam in below the flake but it was too big. Just have to trust your feet. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Did this before TPS and enjoyed it a lot more. Did try fiddling my smallest cam in below the flake but it was too big. Just have to trust your feet. |
||||
| Mr Pink 2 | 12 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: My point was that the gear in the flake is almost certainly not going to hold. A steady head is all that is required to make this climb safe. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: My point was that the gear in the flake is almost certainly not going to hold. A steady head is all that is required to make this climb safe. |
||||
| Mr Pink 2 | 9 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: HVS leaders will find this very easy. It's still an excellent route though, and is much easier than it looks. It's definitely not worth pissing around with micro-cams, if you think you may fall off then this probably isn't the route for you! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: HVS leaders will find this very easy. It's still an excellent route though, and is much easier than it looks. It's definitely not worth pissing around with micro-cams, if you think you may fall off then this probably isn't the route for you! |
||||
| gwilym | 29 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm fairly certin you could protect the crux with a tricam in the far pocket to the left of the crux, I was soloing so I can't be sure | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I'm fairly certin you could protect the crux with a tricam in the far pocket to the left of the crux, I was soloing so I can't be sure |
||||
| Si dH | 19 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this today, very nice. But has anyone tried to put any gear in? Looking at the flake it looked like it would take a half-decent zero 4 or so to protect the crux. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Soloed this today, very nice. But has anyone tried to put any gear in? Looking at the flake it looked like it would take a half-decent zero 4 or so to protect the crux. |
||||
| andybuckley | 13 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: This wee beastie had me very psyched-out for a long time. In the end I warmed up by soloing everything around it (at least the non-crazy-hard ones) and then going for it. It felt easy, but so good :-) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This wee beastie had me very psyched-out for a long time. In the end I warmed up by soloing everything around it (at least the non-crazy-hard ones) and then going for it. It felt easy, but so good :-) |
||||
| Gripped | 1 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Heart ticklingly good! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Heart ticklingly good! |
||||
| Colin Scotchford | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I led this about 12 years ago looking for my first VS lead, The Paul Nunn selected Peak guide told me it was VS; terrible thing this grade inflation | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I led this about 12 years ago looking for my first VS lead, The Paul Nunn selected Peak guide told me it was VS; terrible thing this grade inflation |
||||
| Simon Caldwell | 27 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nonsense, Technical Slab is now very well protected using Friends. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nonsense, Technical Slab is now very well protected using Friends. |
||||
| leon | 26 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Technical Slab at the Roaches is just as unprotected till 30 or 40 foot and is HS 4b. Seemed more like an HS 4b to me -the feeling of exposure wasn't that great. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Technical Slab at the Roaches is just as unprotected till 30 or 40 foot and is HS 4b. Seemed more like an HS 4b to me -the feeling of exposure wasn't that great. |
||||
| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Effectively a solo but you might as well place some gear for the hardish moves up to the crack. Take some gear up so you can set up a belay up for less suicidal climbers. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Effectively a solo but you might as well place some gear for the hardish moves up to the crack. Take some gear up so you can set up a belay up for less suicidal climbers. |
||||
| r@bag | 1 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is a really fun climb. However, the rain came down as I was climbing, luckily there was a tiny piece of friction left underneath the unprotected crack/flake thing at the top!!! I'd guess it's best tried when cool and dry. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This is a really fun climb. However, the rain came down as I was climbing, luckily there was a tiny piece of friction left underneath the unprotected crack/flake thing at the top!!! I'd guess it's best tried when cool and dry. |
||||
| Jus | 19 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: quality route, nicely delicate | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: quality route, nicely delicate |
||||
| Robo | 27 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy really. Careful foot placement makes it feel secure. I wasn't worried at all, despite the runout. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Easy really. Careful foot placement makes it feel secure. I wasn't worried at all, despite the runout. |
||||
| london_huddy | 15 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The perfect friction slab. Not really worth putting a rope on for though. Belief in your shoes, trust of friction and a good calm head will get you through! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The perfect friction slab. Not really worth putting a rope on for though. Belief in your shoes, trust of friction and a good calm head will get you through! |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Froggatt Edge
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Zapple Left-hand
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Yarncliffe)