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12m.

Rockfax Description
The awkward undercut crack has enough runners to make up for the previous two offerings! The initial bulge is the crux and the route has its fair share of sloping holds but, on the whole, it is pretty friendly at the grade. © Rockfax

FA. Len Chapman 1948.

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner, Chatsworth to Bamford, MUMC Ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Consolidation and developmental path to VS, The Gritlist, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Peak District Grit Graded List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
catt 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The bulge is easy, big footholds and good smears, very well protected, and straight of the ground. I reckon easy 4b for anyone looking at their feet. the rest is about vdiff/s with gear anywhere you want it. This should get S 4b. Never 4c and definitely not HS.
βeta?
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βeta: The bulge is easy, big footholds and good smears, very well protected, and straight of the ground. I reckon easy 4b for anyone looking at their feet. the rest is about vdiff/s with gear anywhere you want it. This should get S 4b. Never 4c and definitely not HS.
Cardi 24 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Quite easy for the grade I thought, seconded without slipping in hiking boots.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite easy for the grade I thought, seconded without slipping in hiking boots.
Mutl3y 7 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: No way in this world is there a 4c move anywhere on this crack. My seconder, who was a lead-climbing virgin seriously considered this one as her first candidate. I've been up Diffs that required more technical skills.
βeta?
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βeta: No way in this world is there a 4c move anywhere on this crack. My seconder, who was a lead-climbing virgin seriously considered this one as her first candidate. I've been up Diffs that required more technical skills.
mwh 1 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: When seconding this I did the start on jams and smears staying very close to the crack and thought it was about 4c -- but certainly didn't think this was the easiest approach!
βeta?
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βeta: When seconding this I did the start on jams and smears staying very close to the crack and thought it was about 4c -- but certainly didn't think this was the easiest approach!
Si dH 25 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Protection os not difficult, and this definitely isn't 4c or VS (only just HS) IMHO. Moves over the initial bulge and at half-height are both maybe 4b but only just.
βeta?
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βeta: Protection os not difficult, and this definitely isn't 4c or VS (only just HS) IMHO. Moves over the initial bulge and at half-height are both maybe 4b but only just.
Dale Berry 29 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Swirly about the dificulties in overcomming the bulge, but think the initial crack is a lot harder to protect than it looks (and judging by the wear on the first good wire placement at the start of the upper, much easier, section, so do other people too).
βeta?
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βeta: I agree with Swirly about the dificulties in overcomming the bulge, but think the initial crack is a lot harder to protect than it looks (and judging by the wear on the first good wire placement at the start of the upper, much easier, section, so do other people too).
Swirly 10 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Done this a few times now, IMHO a good mid-grade HS very protectable and I don't agree with 4c for the move over the bulge, there's pockets and smears aplenty.
βeta?
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βeta: Done this a few times now, IMHO a good mid-grade HS very protectable and I don't agree with 4c for the move over the bulge, there's pockets and smears aplenty.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A great route where you can play a silly game, How many nuts can the leader place in the crack 1 set 2 sets?
βeta?
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βeta: A great route where you can play a silly game, How many nuts can the leader place in the crack 1 set 2 sets?
Paul Boardman 17 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I soloed it too. I thought there were a couple of moves on it to be honest. Interesting. Harder than some VSs? Well, there are plenty of HSs out there that qualify for that tag! I think HS is a good grade for this one, lots of protection (well, it looked like it anyway ;-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I soloed it too. I thought there were a couple of moves on it to be honest. Interesting. Harder than some VSs? Well, there are plenty of HSs out there that qualify for that tag! I think HS is a good grade for this one, lots of protection (well, it looked like it anyway ;-)
Mark Stevenson 10 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed it. To be honest, was harder than some VSs with the sloping holds - 4c seemed very fair.
βeta?
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βeta: Soloed it. To be honest, was harder than some VSs with the sloping holds - 4c seemed very fair.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 449
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 428
Votes cast 402
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Paradise Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)