UKH

12m.

Rockfax Description
Friction climbing on poor pockets with a crux reach near the top. A side-runner on the right lowers the grade a couple of notches. The line here uses the Direct Start to Sunset Slab which makes for a logical and independent route. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1972.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Grit solos hvs -e3, Slabs, grooves and technical bold not too pumpy ticklist

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User Date Notes
Stuck to a Rock 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Slabtastic. Could almost do with more gear, but then it wouldn't be E2.
βeta?
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βeta: Slabtastic. Could almost do with more gear, but then it wouldn't be E2.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I don't normally solo E2s. Feels about the same as 3PS, I'd give both E1 5a, HVS with a side runner
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βeta: I don't normally solo E2s. Feels about the same as 3PS, I'd give both E1 5a, HVS with a side runner
LakesWinter 21 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Led today with a side runner as I am too much of a chicken to do it as an E2. It's a nice move over the bulge; the next smearing one is also pleasant.
βeta?
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βeta: Led today with a side runner as I am too much of a chicken to do it as an E2. It's a nice move over the bulge; the next smearing one is also pleasant.
match 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Think worth E2 - for me it feels a notch more serious than Motorcade and TPS.
βeta?
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βeta: Think worth E2 - for me it feels a notch more serious than Motorcade and TPS.
Andrew Barker 9 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Onsighted soloed this in November. I'd say it merits E2 for it's boldness. Slightly easier for the tall, as it took me a while to get over the mid-height bulge (I'm 5'9). My 6'4 mate had no trouble! Felt on a par with 3PS which I also onsight soloed, but Motorcade scared me more than both and I led that.
βeta?
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βeta: Onsighted soloed this in November. I'd say it merits E2 for it's boldness. Slightly easier for the tall, as it took me a while to get over the mid-height bulge (I'm 5'9). My 6'4 mate had no trouble! Felt on a par with 3PS which I also onsight soloed, but Motorcade scared me more than both and I led that.
SARS 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Took a lob off the crux on this route the other day, to my extreme embarrasment. You can protect the climb - get your belayer to jump off the belay stance at the start of the route if you fall. I ended up 1/2 ft off the deck.
βeta?
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βeta: Took a lob off the crux on this route the other day, to my extreme embarrasment. You can protect the climb - get your belayer to jump off the belay stance at the start of the route if you fall. I ended up 1/2 ft off the deck.
Andy Reeve 25 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: much scarier than 3PS in my opinion.
βeta?
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βeta: much scarier than 3PS in my opinion.
leon 10 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: this is the only e2 i've ever done and to my mind its easier and less intimidating than three pebble slab. i guess the only thing is you have a bigger fall on sundowner.
βeta?
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βeta: this is the only e2 i've ever done and to my mind its easier and less intimidating than three pebble slab. i guess the only thing is you have a bigger fall on sundowner.
Dale Berry 12 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Led today with the side runner and still felt bold. Also thought the moves were slightly harder than Motorcade. Good, but potentially rather scary route.
βeta?
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βeta: Led today with the side runner and still felt bold. Also thought the moves were slightly harder than Motorcade. Good, but potentially rather scary route.
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first E2, its also easier than Crescent arete which gets HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: My first E2, its also easier than Crescent arete which gets HVS.
Jus 19 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i thought it was on a par with 3 Pebble Slab, nice crux
βeta?
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βeta: i thought it was on a par with 3 Pebble Slab, nice crux
Paul Boardman 24 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This is much scarier than 3PS. Hard moves at the top and protection that'll just stop you rolling down the hillside. It's gonna hurt if you fall! So why not E2?
βeta?
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βeta: This is much scarier than 3PS. Hard moves at the top and protection that'll just stop you rolling down the hillside. It's gonna hurt if you fall! So why not E2?
Mark Stevenson 10 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I know its a 5a solo - but still E2? E1 surely and that's still soft touch.
βeta?
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βeta: I know its a 5a solo - but still E2? E1 surely and that's still soft touch.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 129
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 113
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Big Crack

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Froggatt Edge)
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