UKH

18m.

Rockfax Description
Starting from a ledge up and right or the grotty corner below, climb the pocketed slab right of Tody's crack. Large low cams protect, but not really very adequately. © Rockfax

FA. D.Warriner 1969.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Tick List for 2015/2016

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User Date Notes
Fraser kid 17 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This would be a big and unpleasant fall towards the top. Quite serious for E1 I thought.
βeta?
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βeta: This would be a big and unpleasant fall towards the top. Quite serious for E1 I thought.
Christheclimber 14 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Is this only 5a? I found it harder than Ratbag today. 5b me thinks.
βeta?
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βeta: Is this only 5a? I found it harder than Ratbag today. 5b me thinks.
elizabethporter 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Scary stuff.
βeta?
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βeta: Scary stuff.
Si dH 29 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The friends inthe break are bomber but miles below you at the crux. I placed what appeared to be a bomber swedge 3 at the back of the biggest pocket/mini-ledge about 2m above the cams, but wouldnt have wanted to take a whipper on ot it from the top. Clibmign is easier than CMC but not much, and CMC is safer assumig a side-runner. Pretty much benchmark E1 5a I'd say, noticeably harder than e.g. 3ps or left edge slab (bother very soft) but easier than one or two others I've done. Above the gear you have to make sure take the right line, although until it becomes obvious the moves are reversible, just be careful.
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βeta: The friends inthe break are bomber but miles below you at the crux. I placed what appeared to be a bomber swedge 3 at the back of the biggest pocket/mini-ledge about 2m above the cams, but wouldnt have wanted to take a whipper on ot it from the top. Clibmign is easier than CMC but not much, and CMC is safer assumig a side-runner. Pretty much benchmark E1 5a I'd say, noticeably harder than e.g. 3ps or left edge slab (bother very soft) but easier than one or two others I've done. Above the gear you have to make sure take the right line, although until it becomes obvious the moves are reversible, just be careful.
Andy Clarke 23 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves on a lovely slab. Guy who did it after me got a zero in the big pocket before the finishing moves. Wouldn't think it merits E1 with gear other than in the big break, though.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice moves on a lovely slab. Guy who did it after me got a zero in the big pocket before the finishing moves. Wouldn't think it merits E1 with gear other than in the big break, though.
Dave Emms 27 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Steve that this isn't the same grade as 3 Pebble slab, definitely E1. I got a few swedges in on the face but you're a fair way above them at the top, makes the cool series of moves up the face feel even better!
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with Steve that this isn't the same grade as 3 Pebble slab, definitely E1. I got a few swedges in on the face but you're a fair way above them at the top, makes the cool series of moves up the face feel even better!
Chris the Tall 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant moves but over very quickly. RPs give adequate protection. Possibly easier than CMC ?
βeta?
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βeta: Pleasant moves but over very quickly. RPs give adequate protection. Possibly easier than CMC ?
Katya 16 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Birkby - 5a moves where you can break your legs. It's not HVS is it... Besides you can't have an extra grade for soloing it anyway. Theres good gear on the slab. It's like saying Three Pebble is E2 'cos I soloed it.
βeta?
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βeta: Birkby - 5a moves where you can break your legs. It's not HVS is it... Besides you can't have an extra grade for soloing it anyway. Theres good gear on the slab. It's like saying Three Pebble is E2 'cos I soloed it.
mozzer 11 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: This is a fantastic route - lovely moves. The crux is committing but moving to good holds, and a nice necky route.
βeta?
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βeta: This is a fantastic route - lovely moves. The crux is committing but moving to good holds, and a nice necky route.
Paul Boardman 17 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I led this on saturday (14/9/02) and soloed it straight afterwards. The final moves are lovely but you definately wouldn't want to fall off them even with three friends in the break. At least you would n't tumble down the hillside, though it would hurt when you hit the ledge... A good bold E1.
βeta?
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βeta: I led this on saturday (14/9/02) and soloed it straight afterwards. The final moves are lovely but you definately wouldn't want to fall off them even with three friends in the break. At least you would n't tumble down the hillside, though it would hurt when you hit the ledge... A good bold E1.
chris j 13 Dec, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Its a grade easier than either of the two on the left of the slab - when you commit its not so bad....
βeta?
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βeta: Its a grade easier than either of the two on the left of the slab - when you commit its not so bad....

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 170
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 159
Votes cast 157
Style of Ascent
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Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest

Dead Banana Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)
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