12m.

Rockfax Description
A classic jamming crack that is a bit of a battle with a useful chockstone en-route where knees are usual. From the ledge finish over the exposed jutting flake on the left for an airy thrill. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Revenge List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Chatsworth to Bamford , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Froggatt Cracks (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist) , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Froggatt and Curbar starred VSs , Diffage Comp , Morgan's List

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User Date Notes
Craig Samuels 31 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The nesting bird is still there and now has 5-6 chicks!
βeta?
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βeta: The nesting bird is still there and now has 5-6 chicks!
ArozNick 13 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Small bird nesting in the crack at the start of the climb, At head height. 13th May 2023, Please be considerate :)
βeta?
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βeta: Small bird nesting in the crack at the start of the climb, At head height. 13th May 2023, Please be considerate :)
Ali Cooper 1 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! Loads of fun, especially the end.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route! Loads of fun, especially the end.
John Nuttall 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Went over the flake at the top but not sure it is such a good idea. If it did break free then the consequences to climbers and innocent bystanders could be bad.
βeta?
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βeta: Went over the flake at the top but not sure it is such a good idea. If it did break free then the consequences to climbers and innocent bystanders could be bad.
Alan Blakeman 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute belter - real Joe Brown tester - 1948 vintage when there were no modern camming devices to alleviate the 'worries'. Flake finish is easy peasy... but worth doing just for the photo opportunity!
βeta?
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βeta: Absolute belter - real Joe Brown tester - 1948 vintage when there were no modern camming devices to alleviate the 'worries'. Flake finish is easy peasy... but worth doing just for the photo opportunity!
elizabethporter 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found this to be a real struggle. Thought I could jam but this one proved I still have a lot to learn.
βeta?
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βeta: Found this to be a real struggle. Thought I could jam but this one proved I still have a lot to learn.
Byronius Maximus 2 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Did this two days ago, my second ever VS lead. Found it to be very strenuous, but not all that technically hard. Mind you, I didn't know about the exposed flake finished so missed out there, which is a bit gutting as it looks awesome.
βeta?
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βeta: Did this two days ago, my second ever VS lead. Found it to be very strenuous, but not all that technically hard. Mind you, I didn't know about the exposed flake finished so missed out there, which is a bit gutting as it looks awesome.
JMarkW 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Ab Fab! Tougher than Fern Crack! Jamtastic.
βeta?
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βeta: Ab Fab! Tougher than Fern Crack! Jamtastic.
Jon Greengrass 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Inverted V is much more delicate, Hawk's nest is jam-orama and requires "forgotten" skills.
βeta?
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βeta: Inverted V is much more delicate, Hawk's nest is jam-orama and requires "forgotten" skills.
helix 5 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: in the graded list this is below Inverted V. ??!!
βeta?
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βeta: in the graded list this is below Inverted V. ??!!
Si dH 25 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: mm i fell off it just below the crux (which i thought was getting to the chock?) but then led it ground-up second go. Top section is nice climbing but pretty easy. Hard for 4c lower down.
βeta?
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βeta: mm i fell off it just below the crux (which i thought was getting to the chock?) but then led it ground-up second go. Top section is nice climbing but pretty easy. Hard for 4c lower down.
Robo 13 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome struggle. Bombing gear all the way up, and stepping out around that flake at the top is one hell of an exposure experience. I didn't even bleed!
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome struggle. Bombing gear all the way up, and stepping out around that flake at the top is one hell of an exposure experience. I didn't even bleed!

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Voting
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Votes cast 292
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Low 5a
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Votes cast 274
Votes cast 259
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Golden Yardstick

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wildcat)

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