UKH

12m.

Rockfax Description
From halfway up Swimmer's Chimney squirm rightwards past the arete and climb the wall by a hard move, things then ease.
A bouldery direct start up right side of the lower arete is the rarely repeated - Better Dead Than Smeg, E6 6c. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke 1980.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes

Feedback

User Date Notes
conronoy 10 Apr Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook topo looks too high. From the gear went back down and traversed the lowest finger break into the face then up the full face by long moves. Which feels right at the grade E2 5c. Makes sense that it feels more like E1 5b if you go higher, which still looks good, as you miss a fair few thin moves on the face. Better topos and/or descriptions are needed
βeta?
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βeta: The guidebook topo looks too high. From the gear went back down and traversed the lowest finger break into the face then up the full face by long moves. Which feels right at the grade E2 5c. Makes sense that it feels more like E1 5b if you go higher, which still looks good, as you miss a fair few thin moves on the face. Better topos and/or descriptions are needed
gazfellows 9 Apr Show βeta
βeta: No mention of down climbing and traversing right!! The actual line is way higher in the guide! Definitely not 5c on that approach though
βeta?
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βeta: No mention of down climbing and traversing right!! The actual line is way higher in the guide! Definitely not 5c on that approach though
Droyd 1 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: As everyone else says, from the gear in the arete you reverse to the previous break and traverse out right on that
βeta?
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βeta: As everyone else says, from the gear in the arete you reverse to the previous break and traverse out right on that
Sam Doyle 21 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A brilliant climb. Very well protected and with a nice mantelshelf after attaining the face.
βeta?
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βeta: A brilliant climb. Very well protected and with a nice mantelshelf after attaining the face.
Joe Costello 12 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute classic! Worth 3 stars for sure. E2 5c fair i reckon.
βeta?
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βeta: Absolute classic! Worth 3 stars for sure. E2 5c fair i reckon.
bone 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Getting onto the face definitely didn't feel like the crux to me. It was the few moves after that with a semi-mantleshelf that provided the entertainment. Get good gear in quick and then be ready for a long reach. A romp from there on. A really enjoyable climb and worth 3 stars I reckon for its variety.
βeta?
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βeta: Getting onto the face definitely didn't feel like the crux to me. It was the few moves after that with a semi-mantleshelf that provided the entertainment. Get good gear in quick and then be ready for a long reach. A romp from there on. A really enjoyable climb and worth 3 stars I reckon for its variety.
Nick Smith - Climbers 7 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Getting on to the face is by far the hardest part. From the large jammed block in the chimney, you can arrange good gear in the arete, which is above the crux moves onto the face (and makes it E1 perhaps?)
βeta?
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βeta: Getting on to the face is by far the hardest part. From the large jammed block in the chimney, you can arrange good gear in the arete, which is above the crux moves onto the face (and makes it E1 perhaps?)
The Pylon King 14 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of traditional back and footing to get you started,strange bouldery moves around onto the face, then lovely long moves up the face - classic and varied - very well protected - more like E1 5c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of traditional back and footing to get you started,strange bouldery moves around onto the face, then lovely long moves up the face - classic and varied - very well protected - more like E1 5c

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 81
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Alcasan

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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