An exciting route following a line up cracks close to the arete right of Lucy in the Sky. The climbing is excellent, requiring a variety of techniques, with some great situations. Approach by abseiling down the arete which bounds the right hand side of the south face (several stakes in place). A good semi-hanging belay can then be arranged at the bottom of a prominent crack on the south face, just above the wave splashed rocks below.
1. 25m (4c) Climb up the excellent jamming crack until a good ledge is reached. The open groove above is climbed with less difficulty to a belay ledge (take care with loose blocks here).
2. 20m (4b) Traverse left over a huge loose block to the pedestal flake on Spantastic pitch 2. From here, finish as for Spantastic up and left through the break in the upper overhangs.
(Oxford Mountaineering 2000)