A sensational expedition that requires technical moves on its first pitch and strong-arm tactics on the second. Start 18m left of the bay with two trees, directly below a roof-capped niche midway up the face.
1) 5c, 23m. Make a steep pull over the low overhang and step left to a line of shallow grooves. Follow these to below an overhang level with the niche to the right. Make a thin traverse right to enter the niche and belay on two pegs.
2) 5b, 28m. Move up and traverse awkwardly right to exit the niche and get established under a V-groove - pegs. Pull steeply up into the groove and climb it until it is possible to quit it on the right to finish up slabby ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A classic E2 through the largest niche in the crag, although it is entered and exited with considerable difficulty, high in the grade.
P1. Climb a clean groove then rib below the left side of the Niche, step left into a thin crack 3m due left then traversely thinly back right to gain the Niche, peg and RP belay.
P2. Climb reasonably rightwards beneath the capping overhang until obscure and awkward moves gain the slanting groove well right. Follow this and headwall on the right in great position.
A.Liddell , R.McHaffie Aug/1962.
Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, A Lakeland E2 Odyssey
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