The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
One of Fairy Cave's finest. Sustained and with some run-outs above solid protection. Move up past overlaps onto the slab and some good cracks. Climb boldly leftwards to below the headwall. Move up onto this and finish up the well positioned thin crack. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Terrific stuff! Climb up to and through a distinctive, large, eye-shaped rockfall scar; then climb up and right to wide cracks (good gear). Move up boldly leftwards (crux) to below the headwall. Move up onto the headwall and place good wires (with some relief). Climb the line of the crack to the top, via some thoroughly absorbing, sustained 5b climbing.
FA. S.Franklin, D.Targett.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Fairy cave hard stuff
User | Date | Notes | ||
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badgerjockey | 19 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Eddy added a tat and maillon an point near the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Eddy added a tat and maillon an point near the top |
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Zhi Yuan | 1 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Wide cracks at the bottom full of mud and grass, thin crack on the headwall has some mud and grass | ||
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βeta: Wide cracks at the bottom full of mud and grass, thin crack on the headwall has some mud and grass |
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luke43 | 10 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Much more and better protected than I had expected | ||
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βeta: Much more and better protected than I had expected |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)