UKH

110m, 4 pitches. This route climbs a soaring groove and crackline left of "where the wild things are" passing a large over hang at two thirds height. Sustained exposed and potentially slightly wilder. Incredible climbing, mega positions and full to the brim with exposure. Well protected. Two Stakes at the top.

Start below the obvious groove that leads directly to the overhang.

1. 27m. 5c. Scramble up a few grassy blocks to gain the groove. Climb the cracks in the groove for about 25m and belay anywhere you can before the groove steepens.
2. 40m. 6b. Continue up the groove to where it steepens. Bridge up high and climb the righthand crack for a few meters and gain good holds. Make difficult moves leftwards to gain the crack on the left. follow this crack to gain a big ledge. Climb the wall above the ledge with difficulty (crimps on the right) then move left to gain a big flatty. Climb the crack to belay below the overhang. (Big Blue and Yellow Camalot)
3.20m. 6b. Continue up cracks into a corner until forced rightwards. crux moves through a tricky roof gain a crack on the final head wall. make a move rightwards to a good holds and then belay slightly left again where the crack widens.
4.22m. 6a. Climb the sustained cracks straight up to the top.

John McCune, Paul Swail 2014.

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Route of Interest

Taming the Tiger

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Fair Head)
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