Rockfax Description
A magnificent route that traces an amazing line up this impressive wall. The line visits places which appear much harder from below but holds appear at just the right moment. It is quite run out in places, but what gear there is tends to be good. Start as for Bridge's Route.
1) 4a, 23m. As for Bridge's Route.
2) 4b, 12m. As for Bridge's Route. Easy to combine these two.
2a) 5a, 32m. A good alternative direct version which is useful if Bridge's Route is busy. Move up right to gain a thin crack that leads to an easing. Step left and climb another thin crack to join pitch 3 midway.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb cracks above the belay to a spike. Follow a line of holds up rightwards across the blank wall to the far edge. Move back left, then up and right on flat holds to a pedestal on the arete and an awkward peg belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move carefully up the groove above to good gear at half height. Make steeper moves above to gain a sloping grassy ledge and belay.
5) 5b, 20m. Make an exposed traverse out right on a big foot-ledge to better hand-holds. Pull steeply up to a spike with a thread. Make a long pull up left, then run it out back up right on good holds with outrageous exposure to an easing. Move up right into a bay.
6) 4c, 10m. Finish up the undercut flake-crack on the right wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Quite bold and exposed. Concerns have been raised regarding a large loose block at the second belay.
Ticklists
Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , Nuts of Legends , Hard Rock 2020 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Hard Rock 2020 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Lakes , A Lakeland E2 Odyssey , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , UK Trad , Lakes Hard Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| xavsquires | 8 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Did in 4 pitches. Pulled off some large blocks on the 5th pitch, some smaller blocks came off accidentally, and then I pulled out a much larger one. I think that was all of it but just beware as you come round the arête | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Did in 4 pitches. Pulled off some large blocks on the 5th pitch, some smaller blocks came off accidentally, and then I pulled out a much larger one. I think that was all of it but just beware as you come round the arête |
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| gmob | 13 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: The block belay at the base of the 4th pitch (the first 5b pitch) is detached and a little concerning considering the boldness of the pitch. Linking P3 & 4 may be a good idea. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The block belay at the base of the 4th pitch (the first 5b pitch) is detached and a little concerning considering the boldness of the pitch. Linking P3 & 4 may be a good idea. |
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| Daniel Grout | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Did it in 3 pitches, 1, direct 2a, then 3-4-5 was totally fine, just as run out as it would be any way. Great weather great position, that spike block is going to come off at some point and things will get more interesting | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Did it in 3 pitches, 1, direct 2a, then 3-4-5 was totally fine, just as run out as it would be any way. Great weather great position, that spike block is going to come off at some point and things will get more interesting |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Esk Buttress (Dow Crag)
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Gillette Direct
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Neckband Crag)