Varied and exposed climbing that tours the lower section of the Central Pillar. Start at the large clean ledge gained via a steep scramble (roping up advised).1) 4a, 23m. On the right is a short pillar. From the top of the pillar make a stiff pull to start the long broken corner. Continue direct to a large spike below a short wide crack. Climb the crack and move left along a flake to a belay.2) 4b, 12m. At the left end of the belay ledge is a steep groove/crack. Follow this past a spike to a belay at some wedged flakes.3) 4a, 13m. Traverse left with hands on small flakes to the corner - technical. Move up and left to a good ledge and belay.4) 12m. Move down left to a grass ledge. Traverse left along small ledges to a belay on the arete at some perched flakes.5) 20m. Follow the short mossy groove/corner above to the top, then head up easy grassy ground to a belay. © Rockfax
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Grade: HS 4b ***
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