UKH Hills - 'République Bananière'

700m, 25 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 650m. One of the best granite routes in Chamonix, this should be on every ED climbers' list. There are some bolts on the bolder sections and the belays are bolted, but take a full rack including some large cams.
1) 5c. A thin crack onto a ledge.
2) 6a+. Traverse right across a slab and then under a roof.
3) 5c. Climb a corner and follow it rightwards to a ledge.
4) 6a. Traverse right to a flake then climb this and step right.
5) 6c. Cross the slab rightwards and then go over easy ground to reach the foot of a chimney. This pitch can be circumnavigated by climbing a short chimney above the belay and then traversing higher up on the slab. This option is 5c.
6) 5b+. Climb the chimney then go rightwards up a slab.
7) 6a. Head up the superb crack above the belay.
8) 6a+. Climb the slab to the right then exit into a crack on the right. At the top of this, follow easy ground to a belay.
9) 4c. Traverse 20m right, heading towards a large slab.
10) 6b. Climb the slab, initially going left then coming back right.
11) 6a. Follow bolts right across a slab then go up a chimney to reach easy ground which leads to the foot of a huge corner.
12) 6b+. Follow the corner via some staggeringly good climbing.
13) 6b. Continue up the corner and the slab above. From the top of this, abseil eastwards down to a long ledge.
14) 6a+. Climb a short corner then move right to a crack which leads to easier, broken ground.
15) 4b. Cross ledges rightwards to the foot of a huge corner.
16) 6b+. Climb the superb corner.
17) 6c. More of the same, just harder!
18) 6a. Leave the corner for a series of cracks on the right.
19) 6b. Go up a slab on the left and then a corner on the right.
20) 6c. Climb the crack straight above the belay then follow a ramp system out right.
21) 6a+. Follow the super-featured slab above the belay ledge to a terrace then stay on the ridge crest to a terrace.
From here, follow the Voie normale (République) from section 6 onwards. © Rockfax