II, 350m. Arguably the most famous route in this chapter.1) 6a+. Quite a start! Climb a crack before following a grey ramp-line out right to a ledge. The belay is at the far end of this.2) 5c. Climb a thin crack on the left.3) 6a. Make a short, rising traverse leftwards then go up a steep section which is short but packs quite a punch!4) 6a+. Follow a fantastic thin crack straight up a pillar.5) 5b. Head up the chimney/ramp that leads out left.6) 6a. Make a short, delicate traverse left and then follow a crack easily up a slab to a large ledge. The route steepens considerably from here on.7) 6a. Climb up to the left of a large flake and above this, traverse several metres to the right following a superb series of small flakes up to a ledge.8) 6a. Follow a slab out right and then go straight up, immediately to the right of a corner.9) 6a. Head up and left to gain a shallow corner and go up this.10) 6a. Climb the slabby spur on the right. There is a bold section in the middle of this and at the top of it is a small gap which you have to step across. The belay is 5m higher.11) 6a. Go straight up the spur above and then drift up and left across a slab.12) 5c. Gain the corner on the right and then follow a chimney out left. A final short, wide crack up a slab takes you onto the summit.Descent - Abseil back down. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Piola & Strappazzon Sep/1986.
Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz, Greatest E2s in Europe (or thereabouts)
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