UKH
180m, 4 pitches. The first major ice line on the cliff when approaching from the east, near the rock climbs of Flanker's Route and Vanguard. Forms differently each winter to give routes of varying difficulty - at least V, 5 in January 2015 but can be IV, 4. Description: Climb 120m of broken slabby ground (II, bold) to a rock belay below and right of the icefall. A full 60m from here could get you to a good rock belay above the difficulties but the main ice pitch can be split with a rock belay in the cave on the right.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Eagles Rock

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) Cover
Scottish Rock Climbs (Wired) (2022)
Scottish Mountaineering Club
By Kevin Howett
Scottish Rock - South Cover
Scottish Rock - South (2017)
Pesda Press
By Gary Latter
Guidebook correction for this climb
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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
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High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chasing the sunshine.
Polyphemus Gully

Grade: V 5 ***
(Lochnagar)

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