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150m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Magnificent climbing and ambience combine to give one of the finest VSs around. Although the cliff as a whole is very dirty the rock quality and climbing on the route is excellent, however dry conditions are not a given even in summer. Start at a well worn belay ledge next to a narrow rib.
1) 17m. Ascend the narrow rib and move right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 28m. A sustained pitch. Move up a groove and then go rightwards to the start of a narrowing ramp. Go left along the ramp and make a precarious move to a good ledge and spike. Move right and up again before a few balancy moves left gain a good right leading juggy flake. Pull along the flake to a good ledge and belays.
3) 4c, 12m. Make bouldery moves to gain a position where a step right reaches a big grass ledge. Climb easily to the grassy terrace and belay.
4) 4a, 23m. Traverse the grassy terrace and make a tricky step across a slim slab to a tiny tree. Move left and up to a rock ledge and a difficult-to-arrange belay on nuts, cams and a small spike.
5) 4c, 12m. Move up left to a small spike runner (thin tape) and go a further 3m before heading back right to better holds and easier moves to the right that gain an awkward stance.
6) 4b, 13m. Make an exposed traverse right to a corner. Climb the corner to a large ledge below an impressive corner and wide crack.
7) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner-crack, and at its top move right to a ledge and belay.
8) 8m. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, UK Classic Corners, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, High Quality Adventure routes, FRCC Mega Classics, Cerith's Lancaster Wishlist, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, Nuts of Legends, York University Students path to greatness, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, 2020 Trips, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
ilw 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry.
 
Show beta
βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 52
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Rake End Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Pavey Ark)