Rockfax Description
Magnificent climbing and ambience combine to give one of the finest VSs around. Although the cliff as a whole is very dirty, the rock quality and climbing on the route is excellent, although dry conditions are not a given, even in summer. Start at a well-worn belay ledge next to a narrow rib.
1) 17m. Ascend the narrow rib and move right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 28m. A sustained pitch. Move up a groove and then go rightwards to the start of a narrowing ramp. Go left along the ramp and make a precarious move to a good ledge and spike. Move right and up again before a few balancy moves left gain a good right-leading juggy flake. Pull along the flake to a good ledge and belays.
3) 4c, 12m. Make bouldery moves to gain a position where a step right reaches a big grass ledge. Climb easily to the grassy terrace and belay.
4) 4a, 23m. Traverse the grassy terrace and make a tricky step across a slim slab to a tiny tree. Move left and up to a rock ledge and a difficult-to-arrange belay on nuts, cams and a small spike.
5) 4c, 12m. Move up left to a small spike runner (thin tape) and go a further 3m before heading back right to better holds and easier moves to the right to gain an awkward stance.
6) 4b, 13m. Make an exposed traverse right to a corner. Climb the corner to a large ledge below an impressive corner and wide crack.
7) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner-crack, and at its top move right to a ledge and belay.
8) 8m. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , UK Classic Corners , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , High Quality Adventure routes , FRCC Mega Classics , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Nuts of Legends , York University Students path to greatness , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , 2020/21 Trips , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , Lake District , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FelixC | 12 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseil points on top of P3 and 7 but mallions were rusty so walked off | βeta? | |
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βeta: Abseil points on top of P3 and 7 but mallions were rusty so walked off |
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| djwilse | 22 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Pitch 6 finish to belay (after traverse) - the direct corner finish up to the belay has loose flakes on, should be taken by moving up left hand side of wall instead (although would be difficult in wet, as would all the route). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 6 finish to belay (after traverse) - the direct corner finish up to the belay has loose flakes on, should be taken by moving up left hand side of wall instead (although would be difficult in wet, as would all the route). |
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| DavidBaines | 26 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Peg belay at top of pitch 5 is badly rusted | ||
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βeta: Peg belay at top of pitch 5 is badly rusted |
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| JackO3522 | 16 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route a tad wet and a little more exciting that it would be in the dry - the last pitch is amazing and makes up for average climbing before then | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route a tad wet and a little more exciting that it would be in the dry - the last pitch is amazing and makes up for average climbing before then |
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| neuromancer | 18 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty sparsely geared (about a placement every 7-10m, not easy to place and takes some fiddling) outside of the last pitch. Take small pro and slings for the plentiful chockstones hidden in the final crack. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty sparsely geared (about a placement every 7-10m, not easy to place and takes some fiddling) outside of the last pitch. Take small pro and slings for the plentiful chockstones hidden in the final crack. |
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| Powertrain | 11 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Route is very much harder after a wet spell and takes a long time to dry | βeta? | |
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βeta: Route is very much harder after a wet spell and takes a long time to dry |
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| ilw | 1 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Eagle Crag (Buttermere)
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Bridges Route / Medusa Wall combo
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Esk Buttress (Dow Crag))