UKH

150m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Magnificent climbing and ambience combine to give one of the finest VSs around. Although the cliff as a whole is very dirty, the rock quality and climbing on the route is excellent, although dry conditions are not a given, even in summer. Start at a well-worn belay ledge next to a narrow rib.
1) 17m. Ascend the narrow rib and move right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 28m. A sustained pitch. Move up a groove and then go rightwards to the start of a narrowing ramp. Go left along the ramp and make a precarious move to a good ledge and spike. Move right and up again before a few balancy moves left gain a good right-leading juggy flake. Pull along the flake to a good ledge and belays.
3) 4c, 12m. Make bouldery moves to gain a position where a step right reaches a big grass ledge. Climb easily to the grassy terrace and belay.
4) 4a, 23m. Traverse the grassy terrace and make a tricky step across a slim slab to a tiny tree. Move left and up to a rock ledge and a difficult-to-arrange belay on nuts, cams and a small spike.
5) 4c, 12m. Move up left to a small spike runner (thin tape) and go a further 3m before heading back right to better holds and easier moves to the right to gain an awkward stance.
6) 4b, 13m. Make an exposed traverse right to a corner. Climb the corner to a large ledge below an impressive corner and wide crack.
7) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner-crack, and at its top move right to a ledge and belay.
8) 8m. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, UK Classic Corners, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, High Quality Adventure routes, FRCC Mega Classics, Cerith's Lancaster Wishlist, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, Nuts of Legends, York University Students path to greatness, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, 2020/21 Trips, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Lakeland VS Walking Tour, Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
JackO3522 16 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Great route a tad wet and a little more exciting that it would be in the dry - the last pitch is amazing and makes up for average climbing before then
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route a tad wet and a little more exciting that it would be in the dry - the last pitch is amazing and makes up for average climbing before then
neuromancer 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Pretty sparsely geared (about a placement every 7-10m, not easy to place and takes some fiddling) outside of the last pitch. Take small pro and slings for the plentiful chockstones hidden in the final crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty sparsely geared (about a placement every 7-10m, not easy to place and takes some fiddling) outside of the last pitch. Take small pro and slings for the plentiful chockstones hidden in the final crack.
Powertrain 11 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Route is very much harder after a wet spell and takes a long time to dry
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route is very much harder after a wet spell and takes a long time to dry
ilw 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry.
Show beta
βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 54
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gimmer Crag)
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