A monumental line that tackles the narrow headwall at the back of Easter Gully. The crux is probably E1 without resort to traditional tactics! Care is needed with the belay below the crux as the best gear is at foot level. Start at the base of the wall.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb up the centre of the narrow buttress via short slabs and walls to a ledge below a steep crack on the right-hand side of a large Africa-shaped flake. Climb the strenuous crack to ledges - The Bandstand. Belay on the left - the gear placements are at foot level.
2) 5b, 22m. Thin, fingery and bold moves up the wall gain better holds and a slight niche. Continue up a short flake-crack to an overhung diagonal break and follow this left to a corner. Move up and right to a stance.
3) 4b, 18m. A traverse right along the ledge ends at an exposed rib. Move right around it and follow the slab to the top. © Rockfax
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