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Rockfax Description
The long narrowing buttress is a gratifying climb packed with interesting climbing. The climb is slightly more difficult than in the past as a result of the loss of a large spike of rock high on the route. Start 2m left of the toe of the buttress at a crack.
1) 16m. Climb to a large block, then head up leftwards to a steep flake-crack that leads to a ledge and belay.
2) 13m. Move up a short wall and step left to a ledge. An easy low-angled corner gains a belay ledge with a large square flake resting on it.
3) 11m. Traverse 3m left and climb easily up right to a ledge and belay.
4) 23m. Climb up leftwards to the crest of the buttress and follow this to a small ledge and belay. Good hidden cracks just up and left of the belay.
5) 12m. Move up to the base of a slab and follow it rightwards to a belay on a ledge.
6) 16m. Traverse a crack leftwards to a pronounced fin of rock. Move left under the fin and make a difficult move up a crack to easier ground. Move up right to a belay at the start of a ramp.
7) 13m. Climb the ramp and pull up to a ledge. Traverse back left until a final move up gains the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Dow's Classic Non-Extremes, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, The Long Routes, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Martin Davies 18 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Flake gone, mount the pinnacle and proceed above!
 
Show beta
βeta: Flake gone, mount the pinnacle and proceed above!
colinai 29 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of trouble route finding around "the exposed flake" mentioned in the guide book - has this now gone? I thought I could see some wobbly remains
 
Show beta
βeta: Bit of trouble route finding around "the exposed flake" mentioned in the guide book - has this now gone? I thought I could see some wobbly remains

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High HD
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High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brown Slabs Direct

Grade: VD ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)