Rockfax Description
An audacious and fierce line that has a serious first pitch and strenuous main pitch. Start at the base of The Balrog's corner.
1) 5c, 15m. From the base of The Balrog's corner, move right for 3m. Climb to a slight depression and pull out of it past a bulge to a mossy slab. A dirty slab leads up and left to a stance. A very serious pitch that gathers moss.
2) 6a, 35m. Head out right below the slanting overhang, then break through it at a corner/groove. Move right to an easing and go left to a steep crack-line. The crack-line is pumpy and ends with a wild move right to easier territory at a corner. Take the corner then move right into Eliminate 'A'. Follow this to its stance at blocks.
3) 4c, 14m. Climb steeply from the left up a groove and wall to a bulge. Move over the bulge and up another groove to a belay.
4) 5b, 30m. Gain the thin groove above (left of a hanging arete). Climb the groove with difficulty before moving left to another groove that leads to easier ground and belays. © Rockfax
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Grade: E4 6b ***
(Great End Crag)