Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The hardest trad lead in the Peak with sport 8b climbing and that is with the marginal gear in place. Climb the face (poor gear) into Eye of the Tiger. Follow this through its crux, then move left and direct up the wall past a couple of breaks to easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The greatest challenge on the pinnacle is also likely the hardest limestone trad climb in the Peak District, graded E8 6c or 8a. Rising up all the best bits of Eye of the Tiger, it also incorporates an alternative technical start to that route and a punchy mono pocket direct finish finale. It has been climbed moving out leftward using the mono pocket but this avoids the true thrill of the fight for those with the requisite reach to go direct.
Tom Randall Sep/2015.
Ticklists
The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hard Peak Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ramon Marin | 7 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: it has bomber gear all the way. no need for pads at the start either: good purple totem, offset gold, green and black totem protect the start. I think Steve Mac and Randall need a set of totems… | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: it has bomber gear all the way. no need for pads at the start either: good purple totem, offset gold, green and black totem protect the start. I think Steve Mac and Randall need a set of totems… |
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| Peaklime_bagger | 4 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: E8 6c (8a). Very, very good. In large part, because Eye of the Tiger is so good. Satisfying top mono crux if done direct (as per FA); the left wayward version -whilst a logical solution for those short of limb- is a little easier and may leave those with the required length to be left wanting. A trad route for sport climbers. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: E8 6c (8a). Very, very good. In large part, because Eye of the Tiger is so good. Satisfying top mono crux if done direct (as per FA); the left wayward version -whilst a logical solution for those short of limb- is a little easier and may leave those with the required length to be left wanting. A trad route for sport climbers. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Meshuga
Grade: E9 6c ***
(Black Rocks)