Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the central line under the arch and out to a belay around the back. The steep lower section leads to a big move to a jug. Above that things start getting technical. Stunning and unusual. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follow the central line of bolts under the arch and out to a belay around the back. Sustained and powerful. A stunning and unusual route for the Peak - not to be missed!

Andy Pollitt 1987.

Ticklists

Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , Steep UK Sport Routes , Pyramid to 8a+ , On Peak Rock , The Festival Of Shite , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
jimlearonasmear 1 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Left a krab in the arch for a speedy clip strip, if you could leave it there. Ta.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left a krab in the arch for a speedy clip strip, if you could leave it there. Ta.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Body Machine

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Raven Tor (Miller's Dale))

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