UKH

Rockfax Description
One the best crux sequences in the Pass. You may well end up bamboozled or even end up body-bridging Quarryman style across the groove! .
1) 20m. As for Plexus P1, but belay just below and to the right of the Plexus belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb a wall then head right (peg) to the groove. From the base of this, make a step out left onto an obvious foothold, and a tricky mantel to get into the scooped slab above; all quite blind! Belay on the slab.
3) 5c, 20m. Smear, palm and contort up the rounded groove to reach a small roof. Pass this on the right and climb up to a peg, then head to a small overhang and trend up and right to a good belay just right of the huge capping roof.
4) 5b, 10m. Move up into the booming flake directly above the belay and climb up to reach the traverse line of Nexus. This leads left round the arete to belay at the perched block on P3 of Plexus. This can be a bit of a bun fight on a busy day as three classic routes converge here.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, UK smearing corners, Jonesy's leg day ticklist, Hard Rock & Other Classics

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User Date Notes
Jon Stewart 7 Sep, 2012 Show βeta
βeta: Very dirty after the appalling summer of 2012. Friction climbing on frictionless lichen? I fell off!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very dirty after the appalling summer of 2012. Friction climbing on frictionless lichen? I fell off!

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 53
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Aura

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)
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