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Rockfax Description
The better of the two E1s, Nexus is an absolute classic and is a good stern test for any aspiring E1 leader. The rock is superb throughout.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. A long, sustained and superb pitch. Follow the slab just right of the large corner to the roof. Hand traverse leftwards under the roof to the corner. A bold move out to the arete gains a thread before pulling round the roof via the good layback-crack and gain the diagonal ramp. Follow this up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right. Follow the short crack to a shallow groove - all quite technical and demanding - to a good stance just right of the huge roof (junction with Ten Degrees North).
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab on the right until the angle steepens, then move left onto a ledge. From the left end of the ledge traverse left along a horizontal break (tricky) to a swing round the arete. Belay in the scoop below a detached block on P3 of Plexus.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, Jonesy's leg day ticklist

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 78
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cenotaph Corner

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Dinas Cromlech)