This is a fun (if slightly claustrophobic) route. It is best tackled in dry conditions, so wait a few days after the last rain. The route can be used as a scrambling approach to the North Ridge of Crib Goch or The Parson's Nose. Alternatively, for a short day, you can make an exciting free-hanging abseil back down.
1) Head up the damp scree-filled gully to where it gets rocky. About 5m before the gully becomes vertical is a small rib on the right. Climb this to gain a ledge system that leads up and left into the main gully. A good belay can be found just under the roof formed by the boulder.
2) The next section heads up and left towards a window of light. Carry a spare sling to hang on your harness so you can drag your bag up behind you as you can't fit through the slot at the top whilst wearing it!
3) From this point, you can make a 30m abseil down the outside of the jammed boulder for a quick descent if you have a 60m rope with you. If you continue up the gully, start on the right again and work your way back left to regain the main gully where it eases just above a small recess. Now ascend the gully to a large grassy terrace.
Descent - You can turn left or right at the terrace and either traverse across left to join the approach to the North Ridge of Crib Goch. Turning right you can follow the terrace down into Cwm Glas and join the approach to The Parson's Nose. © Rockfax
Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
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