One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling. .
1) 4a, 15m. From the toe of the buttress, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.
4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake cracks and a corner above. © Rockfax
C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22/Jun/1930.
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Michelle's crack ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Colin Kirkus' routes , UK smearing corners , Definitive *** Llanberis , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Welsh Roadtrip
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