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78m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic, exciting and technical route.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire, and then make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney with the help of the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop, follow this and go right to a bold mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then onto a stance.
4) 4c, 15m. The main corner above is much tougher than it looks. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a brute-force-and-ignorance approach. © Rockfax


Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Libby Peter's HVS Hit List, North Wales HVS, Hard Rock 2020, Definitive *** Llanberis, Big Routes 2020, May Trip Target List, Hard Rock, Hard Rock & Other Classics


User Date Notes
Rowan Page 4 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er
Show beta
βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er
tbm 2 Jun, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is nails
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is nails

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 166
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 158
Votes cast 143
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest


Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))