UKH

78m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic, exciting and technical route.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire, and then make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney with the help of the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop, follow this and go right to a bold mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then onto a stance.
4) 4c, 15m. The main corner above is much tougher than it looks. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a brute-force-and-ignorance approach. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, Adventure ticklist 2018, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Libby Peter's HVS Hit List, North Wales HVS, Hard Rock 2020, Definitive *** Llanberis, Big Routes 2020, May Trip Target List, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock & Other Classics, 2021, N Wales 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
featuresforfeet 5 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Lead all 4 pitches; 1. Fine, gear sparse but adequate 2. Didn’t find any gear from belay to roof; potential for a whipper straight onto belay 3. Got 2 size 1 nuts and a peanut in before the mantle, definitely bold though not super hard 4. More like 5b than 4c; Brandt Direct the day before was considerably easier
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βeta: Lead all 4 pitches; 1. Fine, gear sparse but adequate 2. Didn’t find any gear from belay to roof; potential for a whipper straight onto belay 3. Got 2 size 1 nuts and a peanut in before the mantle, definitely bold though not super hard 4. More like 5b than 4c; Brandt Direct the day before was considerably easier
smoreda 7 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Today we found human stools on P2 at the end of the traverse under the roof. Mierda pa'ti if you read this. What a disgrace.
βeta?
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βeta: Today we found human stools on P2 at the end of the traverse under the roof. Mierda pa'ti if you read this. What a disgrace.
Rowan Page 4 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er
βeta?
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βeta: Don't recommend first two pitches in a 1er
tbm 2 Jun, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is nails
βeta?
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βeta: Top pitch is nails

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 179
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 171
Votes cast 155
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Merlin Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))
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