Rockfax Description
Quite simply one of the best pitches in Britain; good gear, great climbing and an amazing position. It is also one of the most fallen off climbs in the Pass due to overenthusiastic leaders going for it. Fire up the initial steep crack, passing a surprisingly tricky move where the crack doglegs right. Eventually gain a semi-rest below the grand finale - the leftward-slanting thin crack. Follow this, fighting the growing pump, to a line of slightly-crumbly juggy flakes leading horizontally left to the arete. Finish more easily up the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An aspirational climb which defies most superlatives. One of the best routes of its grade in the country. Protection is superb, even at the top section provided you are strong enough to place it. Approach the vertical crack from the right and, after a tricky start, follow it without difficulty to an awkward section where it bends diagonally right. From a good rest, lace the soaring white crack with runners, take stock and make progressively hard moves until a line of ricketty flakes leads leftwards to the arete. Those with enough stamina in reserve might consider finishing the last 4m direct at E3 5c.

Ron Moseley 06/May/1956.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , Very good routes in the UK , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Caelan visits , One Day Challenges: HVS-E4 , Memorable Climbs , Extreme 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , University of Exeter must tick's , E is for Easy... Right? , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , May Trip Target List , Big Boy Pants , Post Quarantine Blowout , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Big Pitches , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , UK Trad , R&T , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales To Do List

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