UKH

38m.

Rockfax Description
Quite simply one of the best pitches in Britain; good gear, great climbing and an amazing position. It is also one of the most fallen-off climbs in the Pass due to overenthusiastic leaders going for it when they aren't quite ready. Fire up the initial steep crack, passing a surprisingly tricky move where the crack dog-legs right. Eventually gain a semi-rest below the grand finale - the leftward-slanting thin crack. Follow this, fighting the growing pump, to a line of slightly-crumbly juggy flakes leading horizontally left to the arete. Finish more easily up the arete.. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An aspirational climb which defies most superlatives. One of the best routes of its grade in the country. Protection is superb, even at the top section provided you are strong enough to place it. Approach the vertical crack from the right and, after a tricky start, follow it without difficulty to an awkward section where it bends diagonally right. From a good rest, lace the soaring white crack with runners, take stock and make progressively hard moves until a line of ricketty flakes leads leftwards to the arete. Those with enough stamina in reserve might consider finishing the last 4m direct at E3 5c.

Ron Moseley 06/May/1956.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, Very good routes in the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, CUMC Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, Caelan visits, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Memorable Climbs, Extreme 2018, UK Holiday Plans, University of Exeter must tick's, E is for Easy... Right?, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, May Trip Target List, Big Boy Pants, Post Quarantine Blowout, Hard Rock & Other Classics, 2020/21 Goals, 2021 Ticklist, 2021, Must do, North Wales!!, Welsh climbs to last a lifetime, Big Pitches

Feedback

User Date Notes
Guy Bennell 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: I'm calling that a success because I only really needed a quick timeout at the crux sequence to hitch up my support stocking. Big up to all the oldtimers on this route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm calling that a success because I only really needed a quick timeout at the crux sequence to hitch up my support stocking. Big up to all the oldtimers on this route!
MOTFOANRG 5 May Show βeta
βeta: Concerning the previous remark. Now that's what I call Beta!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Concerning the previous remark. Now that's what I call Beta!
Ben Rowland 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: On the front cover of the 2013 Rockfax guide the climber has a purple dragon in the crux crack, this was slightly over-cammed for me, probably still would've held but I think the next size down would fit perfectly.
Show beta
βeta: On the front cover of the 2013 Rockfax guide the climber has a purple dragon in the crux crack, this was slightly over-cammed for me, probably still would've held but I think the next size down would fit perfectly.

Logged Ascents

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 224
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 218
Votes cast 202
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Cromlech Girdle

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Dinas Cromlech)
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