38m.

Rockfax Description
Quite simply one of the best pitches in Britain; good gear, great climbing and an amazing position. It is also one of the most fallen off climbs in the Pass due to overenthusiastic leaders going for it. Fire up the initial steep crack, passing a surprisingly tricky move where the crack doglegs right. Eventually gain a semi-rest below the grand finale - the leftward-slanting thin crack. Follow this, fighting the growing pump, to a line of slightly-crumbly juggy flakes leading horizontally left to the arete. Finish more easily up the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An aspirational climb which defies most superlatives. One of the best routes of its grade in the country. Protection is superb, even at the top section provided you are strong enough to place it. Approach the vertical crack from the right and, after a tricky start, follow it without difficulty to an awkward section where it bends diagonally right. From a good rest, lace the soaring white crack with runners, take stock and make progressively hard moves until a line of ricketty flakes leads leftwards to the arete. Those with enough stamina in reserve might consider finishing the last 4m direct at E3 5c.

Ron Moseley 06/May/1956.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , Very good routes in the UK , Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Caelan visits , Memorable Climbs , Extreme 2018 , UK Holiday Plans , University of Exeter must tick's , E is for Easy... Right? , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , May Trip Target List , Big Boy Pants , Post Quarantine Blowout , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 Ticklist , 2021 , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Big Pitches , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , UK Trad , R&T , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales To Do List , Best Before 2025 , Cheesemen to Piddlybonk , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Road to lundy , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Cianchi's Hit List , A.P's summer: England and Wales expansion pack , Dream Lines

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bennyboy1233 4 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Got to the base, realised we had forgotten the guidebook. Not wanting to downclimb the scramble we asked some fellow climbers who were down on the path, they shouted up the general direction of the route. Got halfway up left wall saw the thin finger crack and thought "that looks way too hard for e2" took the right hand crack onto resurection (unknowingly) and finished direct on what felt like the stiffest e2 ever. Took until the next morning to realised i had finished the wrong route. 10/10 experence would highly recommend
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got to the base, realised we had forgotten the guidebook. Not wanting to downclimb the scramble we asked some fellow climbers who were down on the path, they shouted up the general direction of the route. Got halfway up left wall saw the thin finger crack and thought "that looks way too hard for e2" took the right hand crack onto resurection (unknowingly) and finished direct on what felt like the stiffest e2 ever. Took until the next morning to realised i had finished the wrong route. 10/10 experence would highly recommend
Guy Bennell 18 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I'm calling that a success because I only really needed a quick timeout at the crux sequence to hitch up my support stocking. Big up to all the oldtimers on this route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm calling that a success because I only really needed a quick timeout at the crux sequence to hitch up my support stocking. Big up to all the oldtimers on this route!
MOTFOANRG 5 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Concerning the previous remark. Now that's what I call Beta!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Concerning the previous remark. Now that's what I call Beta!

Logged Ascents

1832 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dinas Cromlech

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 247
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 237
Votes cast 223
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
S S Special

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)

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