100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The leftmost ice ramp gives a fine route..
1) 2, 25m. A short icy pitch leads leftwards to the foot of the ramp proper..
2) 3, 40m. Blast up the ramp, turning a steep section where the ice swings right..
2) 1, 25m. An easy snow-gully remains. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Snowdonia Easy Winter Climbs , Snow and Ice

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User Date Notes
Rob M 20 Jan Show βeta
βeta: In the conditions we eventually got to the crux we had to do about 2m of mixed to pass the steep bit. The rock was quite rotten & the protection 3m down (perfect number 5 wire in roof/ wall crack), ice was soft or too thin on the vertical patch on left so it felt sketchy & was getting worryingly wet by our arrival. Both 2 man teams above were quite bad, 1st stopped for over an hour mid route & were slow when moving, 2nd refused entry onto side ledge & made me perch right in the line of fire then threw a ridiculous amount of ice down on me with no warnings or even appologies from leader or second. Got quite a bruise on side of my face this morning. It was possible to climb it at the grade or certainly only low 4 if you were familiar with mountain/ mixed terrain, belays were all sound, so I still don't understand what the problems above were.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In the conditions we eventually got to the crux we had to do about 2m of mixed to pass the steep bit. The rock was quite rotten & the protection 3m down (perfect number 5 wire in roof/ wall crack), ice was soft or too thin on the vertical patch on left so it felt sketchy & was getting worryingly wet by our arrival. Both 2 man teams above were quite bad, 1st stopped for over an hour mid route & were slow when moving, 2nd refused entry onto side ledge & made me perch right in the line of fire then threw a ridiculous amount of ice down on me with no warnings or even appologies from leader or second. Got quite a bruise on side of my face this morning. It was possible to climb it at the grade or certainly only low 4 if you were familiar with mountain/ mixed terrain, belays were all sound, so I still don't understand what the problems above were.

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Guidebooks for Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr)

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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
High II
Mid II
Low II
Votes cast 55
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ladies' Gully

Grade: III 3 ***
(Clogwyn y Garnedd)

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