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130m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The steep icicle of The Devil's Appendix gives a fantastic strenuous pitch followed by an equally exciting top pitch of great character, passing some amazing ice formations..
1) 6, 30m. Climb the icefall to beneath the roof and hanging icicle (pegs on the left). Launch on the the hanging icicle praying that it doesn't collapse. Climb the steep wall above to the ledge and a loose-ish blocky belay stance. The icicle can sometimes be avoided on the right if it hasn't formed enough to be climbed. .
2) 5, 60m. Climb the ice, first rightwards to a ledge, then back left into a corner (possible cramped belay). Traverse right to the far-right of the icefall and finish direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
You can't miss it. The finest ice route in Wales, possibly in the UK?

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden 5 Apr, 2013 -
Hidden 5 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
adie84 5 Apr, 2013 -
Hidden 1 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
frost 1 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Adam
with Adam
masa-alpin H 25 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S At last! Ice melting fast, the route will disappear the next day. The quality of ice could have been better. In P2, I went slightly off-route to the groove in the left-hand side before traversing precariously on rotten ice back to the route (before the crux of P2). The ice being so thin in P2, there was only one reasonable gear (TriCam) in this 50 metre pitch after the initial 10 metres - very scary! Considering this is the first ice-climb of the season, my performance was satisfactory to me.
At last! Ice melting fast, the route will disappear the next day. The quality of ice could have been better. In P2, I went slightly off-route to the groove in the left-hand side before traversing precariously on rotten ice back to the route (before the crux of P2). The ice being so thin in P2, there was only one reasonable gear (TriCam) in this 50 metre pitch after the initial 10 metres - very scary! Considering this is the first ice-climb of the season, my performance was satisfactory to me.
philhilo 23 Jan, 2013 AltLd Finally. First ice of year.Took big whipper off the pillar - mebee time to get some monos, horizontal bi points not good on v steep v technical, very delicate, much peddaling! Handed over to Misha who cruised it. Led p2 + 3 together - 60m and still hard. Awesome.
with Misha
Finally. First ice of year.Took big whipper off the pillar - mebee time to get some monos, horizontal bi points not good on v steep v technical, very delicate, much peddaling! Handed over to Misha who cruised it. Led p2 + 3 together - 60m and still hard. Awesome.
with Misha
Misha H 23 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Amazing, a dream come true! Description to follow.
Amazing, a dream come true! Description to follow.
robgixer ? Jan, 2013 2nd
centurion05 ? Dec, 2011 - Clipper cruised the pillar. First team on it that season. Think it saw about 6 parties on it after us.
with Stu Harth
Clipper cruised the pillar. First team on it that season. Think it saw about 6 parties on it after us.
with Stu Harth
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 27 Dec, 2010 Lead
Glyn 26 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Amazing route, an experience I wont forget. I lead the 2nd pitch. Very steep 1st pitch
with Steve Long, Calum Muskett
Amazing route, an experience I wont forget. I lead the 2nd pitch. Very steep 1st pitch
with Steve Long, Calum Muskett
morganator H 26 Dec, 2010 AltLd
Martin Cooper 26 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
sam820 26 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S
with Matt Sutton
with Matt Sutton
Hidden 24 Dec, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 14 Jan, 2010 AltLd
stevebarratt 12 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Great climb. Pitches 2 + 3 link with 60m rope.
with Rob Bryniarski
Great climb. Pitches 2 + 3 link with 60m rope.
with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden 12 Jan, 2010 -
Brown 9 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S
with John
with John
Adam Booth 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S Best winter route I've ever done! Been dreaming of getting this tick for 5 years, so yesterday was a dream cone true!
Best winter route I've ever done! Been dreaming of getting this tick for 5 years, so yesterday was a dream cone true!
Ed Booth 9 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Top route! Adam led the pillar. I led top two.
Top route! Adam led the pillar. I led top two.
AB1965 7 Jan, 2010 AltLd With Baggy Richards, one v steep move followed by several steep moves for the first pitch on plastic ice. Second pitch brittle, the traverse right was thin. Thanks to Baggy for the telephone call. Cheshire cat impressions at the top.
With Baggy Richards, one v steep move followed by several steep moves for the first pitch on plastic ice. Second pitch brittle, the traverse right was thin. Thanks to Baggy for the telephone call. Cheshire cat impressions at the top.
phil64 ? Jan, 2010 Lead awesome, bit thin but worth the wait!!!
with owen samuels
awesome, bit thin but worth the wait!!!
with owen samuels
Daniel Wicks 12 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3
Led pitches 1 and 3
Hidden 12 Feb, 2009 AltLd
Mark Reeves ??, 2008 Lead I lead the first two pitches and backed of the final pitch as so much debris coming down during a thaw. Again about 8 teams on it that day,
I lead the first two pitches and backed of the final pitch as so much debris coming down during a thaw. Again about 8 teams on it that day,
GuyM ??, 2006 2nd
with si
with si
geoff b 6 Mar, 2005 AltLd A brilliant day out. We leap-frogged 2 parties who weren't sure it was in condition (it was perfect), had 2 photographers (Pierino Algieri & Adrian Trendall) in attendance, perfect alpine weather & perfect ice. Derek led the big P1; I got the longer but easier P2.. Cheshire cat moment at the top. Made up for falling off a week earlier!
with Derek Blizzard
A brilliant day out. We leap-frogged 2 parties who weren't sure it was in condition (it was perfect), had 2 photographers (Pierino Algieri & Adrian Trendall) in attendance, perfect alpine weather & perfect ice. Derek led the big P1; I got the longer but easier P2.. Cheshire cat moment at the top. Made up for falling off a week earlier!
with Derek Blizzard
Derek Ryden 6 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 26 Feb, 2005 Lead dnf Fell off the crux icefall as the ice fell apart on me: it wasn't in condition & I went quite a ways held by the peg & two opposing wires under the roof. Wow! Luckily it reformed later in the week or I'd never have been forgiven. I went back a week later.
with Matt Tuck
Fell off the crux icefall as the ice fell apart on me: it wasn't in condition & I went quite a ways held by the peg & two opposing wires under the roof. Wow! Luckily it reformed later in the week or I'd never have been forgiven. I went back a week later.
with Matt Tuck
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Feb, 2004 2nd dnf
Ally Smith ? Feb, 2004 Lead O/S First pitch only
First pitch only
Hidden 3 Jan, 2001 Lead O/S
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Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
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Route of Interest

Samuel 17:36

Grade: VI 6 ***
(Craig Dafydd)