Rockfax Description
The steep icicle of The Devil's Appendix gives a fantastic strenuous pitch followed by an equally exciting top pitch of great character, passing some amazing ice formations..
1) 6, 30m. Climb the icefall to beneath the roof and hanging icicle (pegs on the left). Launch on the the hanging icicle praying that it doesn't collapse. Climb the steep wall above to the ledge and a loose-ish blocky belay stance. The icicle can sometimes be avoided on the right if it hasn't formed enough to be climbed. .
2) 5, 60m. Climb the ice, first rightwards to a ledge, then back left into a corner (possible cramped belay). Traverse right to the far-right of the icefall and finish direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
You can't miss it. The finest ice route in Wales, possibly in the UK?
Cold Climbs , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter , Cold Climbs (slimmed down)
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Grade: VI 6 ***
(Craig Y Cwmglas Bach)