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140m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic, must-do routes of the UK, but not a route to be underestimated. Although never desperate, the route finding is testing. Scramble up rightwards to below and left of a triangular overhang which is below a grassy terrace.

1) 4a, 25m. Follow the well-travelled slab up to a ledge at 10m. Walk 5m left and climb a short corner for 3m and move right across a slab, round a rib and up to a stance on a pulpit.

2) 4b, 25m. Follow the tricky rightward-leaning gangway to a chimney groove, climb this for a few metres, often damp, then walk left on a ledge to and belay below a blunt arete overlooking the large gully.

3) 4a, 15m. Climb the arete then head diagonally right to a large triangular ledge in a corner.

4) 4b, 25m. The big pitch, which is a little loose in places. Drop down a little way, then climb up the pinnacle on the left. From the top of the pinnacle, step left onto the steep wall. Pull up into a niche and head round the corner on the left to gain a steep arete. Follow this until it is possible to step left across the chimney and belay below cracks leading to the upper slab.

5) 4a, 25m. The out-there slab. Climb a cracked groove then step across left, passing a broken chimney, to gain the base of a big slab that overlooks the large gully. Climb the centre of the slab then trend left to the exposed left edge. Finish up this in a magnificent position to a belay in a recess.

6) 30m. Climb direct to a ledge, either finish here and escape rightwards, or tackle one of the cracks above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS, Ultimate HS ticklist, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, High Quality Adventure routes, Snowdonia in Chains, Libby Peter's HS Hit List, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Adventure ticklist 2018, Michelle's crack ticklist, The Long Routes, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, Mountain Rock, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, 2020 Trips, Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Josh Bratchley 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The Rockfax guide says follow the well-travelled slab to start P1 but so many people go wrong this is fairly misleading. It seems many people start too far left and low, at the top of the scree. This is not the start and becomes quite bold! Continue up and right further towards the triangular overhang before starting off.
 
Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax guide says follow the well-travelled slab to start P1 but so many people go wrong this is fairly misleading. It seems many people start too far left and low, at the top of the scree. This is not the start and becomes quite bold! Continue up and right further towards the triangular overhang before starting off.
Merlin 4 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook description for pitch 1 is misleading; the route begins 20m up from where you’re tempted to begin gearing-up. On pitch 1 keep right through the broken corner, coming left when the line of jugs and overhang forces you back left across the slab. The rest of the line is easy to follow, and excellent juggy climbing throughout.
 
Show beta
βeta: The guidebook description for pitch 1 is misleading; the route begins 20m up from where you’re tempted to begin gearing-up. On pitch 1 keep right through the broken corner, coming left when the line of jugs and overhang forces you back left across the slab. The rest of the line is easy to follow, and excellent juggy climbing throughout.
subdir 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I’d love to be able to give clear indications re start but can’t. But I think it is almost underneath the triangular overhang, although it looks vegetated. I started 7-8 mt to the left and ended up in serious trouble
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I’d love to be able to give clear indications re start but can’t. But I think it is almost underneath the triangular overhang, although it looks vegetated. I started 7-8 mt to the left and ended up in serious trouble

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High VS
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Votes cast 167
High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 156
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Gem

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Craig Cywarch (aka Craig Cowarch))