UKH Hills - 'Two Pitch Route'

24m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand crack (loose blocks) to ledges then traverse right to pass the arete to a comfortable stance (4c). Finish up the tough crack to a superb juggy exit. A better combination is to start up the lower cracks of The Beer Hunter and continue up the second pitch as above, dubbed Two Beers. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950.

Ticklists

Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bob's Cracking Winter Jamming Crack List , Joe Brown Curbar Routes , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Entry-level Curbar , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Froggatt and Curbar VSs

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User	Date		Notes
cheque	9 Feb, 2022	Show βeta βeta: The descriptions of this route in the first three guidebooks it appeared in strongly suggest that the first pitch was originally what’s now described as the start of The Beer Hunter. The 1957 and 1965 guides both refer to the entire route being on the right-hand side of the Buttress and the 1978 guide describes it as starting “round the arête from the start of Apollo”. The 1985 guide is the first to direct climbers up the chossy cracks on the front of the buttress (as for Apollo) instead. This would make sense given that the “Two Beers” combination is vastly superior to the currently described one, more obvious and easily within Joe Brown’s capabilities at the time.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The descriptions of this route in the first three guidebooks it appeared in strongly suggest that the first pitch was originally what’s now described as the start of The Beer Hunter. The 1957 and 1965 guides both refer to the entire route being on the right-hand side of the Buttress and the 1978 guide describes it as starting “round the arête from the start of Apollo”. The 1985 guide is the first to direct climbers up the chossy cracks on the front of the buttress (as for Apollo) instead. This would make sense given that the “Two Beers” combination is vastly superior to the currently described one, more obvious and easily within Joe Brown’s capabilities at the time.
saintlade	20 Mar, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Ended first pitch at the arete to break it up a bit more which worked nicely. Agree that the second pitch is pretty nails, had to rest on gear for the first time ever after contracting a massive pump on the slopey crack. Not sure it's quite worth 2 stars, good but not really good.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ended first pitch at the arete to break it up a bit more which worked nicely. Agree that the second pitch is pretty nails, had to rest on gear for the first time ever after contracting a massive pump on the slopey crack. Not sure it's quite worth 2 stars, good but not really good.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH	2 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: The top pitch is definitely harder than 4c, no question whatsoever.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The top pitch is definitely harder than 4c, no question whatsoever.
LakesWinter	7 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: The first pitch is wee! I don't know about the top one coz it started raining when I got there last night	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The first pitch is wee! I don't know about the top one coz it started raining when I got there last night
Tom Chamberlain	1 Sep, 2004	Show βeta βeta: I found the top section quite hard, although it was a cold wet day. Not to be underestimated!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I found the top section quite hard, although it was a cold wet day. Not to be underestimated!
gooose	15 Sep, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Unless I am worse at jamming than I thought, the second pitch of this route is much, much harder than 4c - has a big hold fallen off from in the crack?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Unless I am worse at jamming than I thought, the second pitch of this route is much, much harder than 4c - has a big hold fallen off from in the crack?