60m, 2 pitches.
Climbing the obvious central fault at the left end of the signature roof, starting from the back of the cave just left of its left-end corner.
1) 6c, 20m. Climb soft rock steeply, follow the roof crack leftwards with difficulty to a knee-bar left. With a series of hard moves, gain a short chimney and a small ledge over the lip.
2) 5c, 40m. Traditional pitch up the wide fault if taken direct, or maybe climbed on the right wall or the right arête (sometimes wet). Climb up to the large grassy terrace and belay. Escape right along it (or climb another short easy pitch to the top).
1) 6c, 20m. Climb soft rock steeply, follow the roof crack leftwards with difficulty to a knee-bar left. With a series of hard moves, gain a short chimney and a small ledge over the lip.
2) 5c, 40m. Traditional pitch up the wide fault if taken direct, or maybe climbed on the right wall or the right arête (sometimes wet). Climb up to the large grassy terrace and belay. Escape right along it (or climb another short easy pitch to the top).
FA. Dave MacLeod, Masa Sakano 06/Apr/2017.
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Crack apprenticeship - Highland North
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Route of Interest
Perfect Monsters
Grade: E7 6b ***
(Mingulay)