UKH

170m, 5 pitches. The prominent and continuous steep icy groove on the right-hand side of the north-west face of the buttress provides an interesting and sustained route. The route starts 100m right of ‘The Scene’ (and about 10m right of ‘Crow Road’)


1. 30m Climb directly up steep ice to belay right of a steep icefall, beneath a roof

2. 20m Make steep moves out left (crux), then continue up to gain easier angled slope above to a rock belay on a large terrace, with a large pinnacle 20m to the right.

3. 50m Continue up the icy groove to a belay on the right.

4 & 5. 70m Move left up steeper ice to gain easier ground above. Continue to the top.

K. Applegate, V.Wallace 03/Feb/2012.

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Route of Interest

Turf War

Grade: V 6 ***
(Ben Nevis)
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