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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

200m, 3 pitches. P1 Climb on right hand ice initially, then left on steep snow ice. Cut back right to belay on two rusty pegs and a big cam (30m).
P2 Take the short, steep icefall direct, pulling over the bulge to the iced up rocks on the left. Move up and right on snow, through a groove to belay 10m beyond on a peg and some good nuts (40m).
P3 Snow plod to the top (+ Cornice).

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, Joe Brown in Scotland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
davidswannn 1 Apr, 2018 AltLd
with Ruth Love
with Ruth Love
furbrow 7 Mar, 2018 AltLd Lots of ice! Big cornice directly above but avoidable on left.
with Bruce McC
Lots of ice! Big cornice directly above but avoidable on left.
with Bruce McC
Col Kingshott 26 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Ice was decent and took screws. Some sections with dodgy sugar snow and a nice spin drift shower! I thought V,5 was fair today.
Ice was decent and took screws. Some sections with dodgy sugar snow and a nice spin drift shower! I thought V,5 was fair today.
Bish 26 Feb, 2018 2nd Nearly turned back at base due to whiteout, extreme wind and spindrift which couldn't be seen through. Held on and weather passed to be a beautiful day. Ice was decent and took screws. Some sections with dodgy sugar snow and a nice spin drift shower! Col thought V,5 was fair today.
with Col kingshott
Nearly turned back at base due to whiteout, extreme wind and spindrift which couldn't be seen through. Held on and weather passed to be a beautiful day. Ice was decent and took screws. Some sections with dodgy sugar snow and a nice spin drift shower! Col thought V,5 was fair today.
with Col kingshott
benclimbing 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Straight forward climbing but not much in the way of protection! Bottom to the top of the difficulties in one long 70m pitch (moved together for 10m)
with graham boistelle
Straight forward climbing but not much in the way of protection! Bottom to the top of the difficulties in one long 70m pitch (moved together for 10m)
with graham boistelle
Tim Davies 14 Mar, 2015 Lead Cruddy Couldn't find the peg belays and ice screws for psychological protection at times.
Cruddy Couldn't find the peg belays and ice screws for psychological protection at times.
JS1346 11 Apr, 2013 2nd
Hidden 5 Apr, 2013 AltLd
GaryK 27 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S A slightly warm day made the neve soft, but the underlying ice was good. Used rocks, hexes and medium friends for rock protection + ice screws. Did a 30m pitch into the base of the corner, and then a 55m pitch up to a rock belay in the upper gully. Didn't quite reach the top with a 60m rope, about 10m short. Cornice was soft underneath, but good neve on the top for the pull over.
with Dan Bailey
A slightly warm day made the neve soft, but the underlying ice was good. Used rocks, hexes and medium friends for rock protection + ice screws. Did a 30m pitch into the base of the corner, and then a 55m pitch up to a rock belay in the upper gully. Didn't quite reach the top with a 60m rope, about 10m short. Cornice was soft underneath, but good neve on the top for the pull over.
with Dan Bailey
Hidden 23 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
Rob84 23 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Si Ashmore, Rob Adie
with Si Ashmore, Rob Adie
adie84 23 Feb, 2013 -
rob1 ??, 2013 AltLd
geoff b 14 Feb, 2012 AltLd After the Wand we romped up this: had to shift as it began to thaw. A great day out.
with Dr. Nick
After the Wand we romped up this: had to shift as it began to thaw. A great day out.
with Dr. Nick
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
morsy 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with gerhard mors
with gerhard mors
Hidden 1 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
allyrocke 20 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ? Feb, 2011 AltLd
ruaidh 29 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Some steep and insecure snow/ice on P1. One steep, icy step on P2. Pretty good climb, though the wand next door looked fabulous (was too busy unfortunately). Don't know how ukc has this as grade V. Felt easy-mid IV with a couple of scary bits.
with Zoe
Some steep and insecure snow/ice on P1. One steep, icy step on P2. Pretty good climb, though the wand next door looked fabulous (was too busy unfortunately). Don't know how ukc has this as grade V. Felt easy-mid IV with a couple of scary bits.
with Zoe
Jim Walton 29 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Very enjoyable route. Good solid snow ice all the way. Made a Peg belay up and left of 2nd mail pitch, small angle required.
with FranC
Very enjoyable route. Good solid snow ice all the way. Made a Peg belay up and left of 2nd mail pitch, small angle required.
with FranC
Hidden 29 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S
Cardi 23 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Mike led P1 by a very steep ice start. The ice groove afterwards on the same pitch was very steep and cruddy snow ice with no gear. VI,4?! Found a very nice water ice pitch higher up which was really steep with bomber screws
with Mike Wild
Mike led P1 by a very steep ice start. The ice groove afterwards on the same pitch was very steep and cruddy snow ice with no gear. VI,4?! Found a very nice water ice pitch higher up which was really steep with bomber screws
with Mike Wild
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Hidden 23 Feb, 2010 Lead
Lenny 7 Feb, 2010 2nd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ??, 2009 -
with Andy Munro
with Andy Munro
Hidden 18 Mar, 2006 AltLd
luckyjim ? Feb, 2006 AltLd
with K Marsden
with K Marsden
Small and weak ? Feb, 2004 AltLd
brockers ??, 2003 AltLd
with CarlZ
with CarlZ
Hidden ??, 2001 -
luckyjim ? Jan, 2000 AltLd
with K Marsden
with K Marsden
bandersnatch ??, 2000 Lead
phil64 ??, 1998 AltLd Tough grade 4!
Tough grade 4!
Hidden 3 Jan, 1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Mar, 1996 AltLd
nickcanute ? Mar, 1996 AltLd
with keith bolton
with keith bolton
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead
ChrisMarden ??, 1995 AltLd Left gear in corrie day before to incentivise a 2nd day. Nice ice.
with Simon
Left gear in corrie day before to incentivise a 2nd day. Nice ice.
with Simon
pauldrew ??, 1992 AltLd
roger whetton 18 Feb, 1991 AltLd
with John Horsey
with John Horsey
Steve Crowe 7 Feb, 1988 Lead O/S
with Brian...
with Brian...
uphillnow ? Feb, 1987 Lead Unconsolidated snow,worrying.
with Andy Bennett, Brian barker
Unconsolidated snow,worrying.
with Andy Bennett, Brian barker
Richard Weller 10 Mar, 1985 Lead O/S
with Alan Walker
with Alan Walker
11 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 11
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Comb Gully

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Ben Nevis)