UKH

18m.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting all the same. Climb the greasy chimney and monkey along the break to the arete. Follow this with crucial moves on the left side (the very tall can teeter up the front) to reach a fat fluting and the final blank wall with its superb hidden jug. © Rockfax

FA. Geoff Sutton 1951. Climbed and claimed again by Tom Proctor 1971.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
robert-hutton 23 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Please be careful of the colony of bats in the thin crackline after the move onto the arete. Cute.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Please be careful of the colony of bats in the thin crackline after the move onto the arete. Cute.
north country boy 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome Route, very easy for grade, Bomber gear and struggle to see why it gets E3 rather than E2? No harder than Fern Hill! Reach from the ledge is committing though....
Show beta
βeta: Awesome Route, very easy for grade, Bomber gear and struggle to see why it gets E3 rather than E2? No harder than Fern Hill! Reach from the ledge is committing though....
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: "crucial moves on the left-hand side" can be replaced by "desperate slapping on the holdless arete moves" ;) Eeek!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "crucial moves on the left-hand side" can be replaced by "desperate slapping on the holdless arete moves" ;) Eeek!

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Darius

Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)
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