Rockfax Description
A classic with sustained difficulties and breathtaking exposure. Care is needed to protect the second adequately on pitch 2.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up to the left side of the large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay beneath the flakes and corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb the wall to gain the base of a large corner system. Follow this until a hand-traverse leads right along the higher of two parallel ledges to a tough step down. Follow a diagonal line rightwards to an awkward semi-hanging stance.
3) 4c, 18m. Drop down rightwards from the stance and head right again under the roof to reach a ledge. Climb up and left, past an arete, to gain a grassy stance.
4) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove to gain and climb a cracked wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , North wales road to ruins HVS , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , The V.S.+ Ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , The Big Easy Mountain Route Club , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 2020/21 Trips , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Summer 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales To Do List , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
simoncov 12 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil from the mid terrace was tricky to find. We used the anchors on the far right (looking out) and it is much longer than it looks from above because it drops out of sight down the gully.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil from the mid terrace was tricky to find. We used the anchors on the far right (looking out) and it is much longer than it looks from above because it drops out of sight down the gully.
Jules Lane 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Recommend abbing in from top of Pinnacle Wall. Much easier and lands you close to correct start point.
Show beta
βeta: Recommend abbing in from top of Pinnacle Wall. Much easier and lands you close to correct start point.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 91
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rainy Day Women

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Y Castell)

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