A classic with sustained difficulties and breathtaking exposure. Care is needed to protect the second adequately on pitch 2.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb up to the left side of the large grassy ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay beneath the flakes and corner.
2) 4c, 32m. Climb the wall to gain the base of a large corner system. Follow this until a hand-traverse leads right along the higher of two parallel ledges to a tough step down. Follow a diagonal line rightwards to an awkward semi-hanging stance.
3) 4c, 18m. Drop down rightwards from the stance and head right again under the roof to reach a ledge. Climb up and left, past an arete, to gain a grassy stance.
4) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove to gain and climb a cracked wall. © Rockfax
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