Loading Notifications...

Rockfax Description
One of the great Welsh mountain routes. It takes a superb line across the buttress, finishing in a glorious position on the upper 'outside edge'. Start below a block overhang towards the left of the face.
1) 18m. Climb rightwards up a groove below the block. Move right around it and up to a stance on the top.
2) 35m. A thin pull gains a ledge, then make a rising traverse up left to the arete. Climb this to a small ledge (possible belay) and then head direct on good holds to the right-hand end of Sunset Ledge.
3) 12m. Move your belay 6m to the left. Traverse left around some ribs to gain a groove. Climb this to a ledge and belay.
4) 25m. Climb up and left to a corner-crack. Gain this by a tricky move, then follow the corner before moving left onto the rib and up to a belay ledge.
5) 20m. Easy climbing up a rib gains the escape path, follow this around to the left, or...
6) 20m. Climb a short groove with a projecting block in it to gain the top of the ridge and great views all around. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Long Routes, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Mountain Rock, Easy peasy Northy Weesy

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matdixon 18 Sep Show βeta
βeta: I wish we'd read the feed back first as it turned into a scary epic journey. Personally I think this route is now dangerous especially for parties at the base of the route and on the first and last pitches. Substantial quantities of loose rock, blocks, scree situated right above the start of the route but out of sight from the base. Something may have impacted on the first belay as it shows shattering and there's only one poor wire to belay off. Better belay 10m up the next pitch. The top pitch is a bit of a horror show with few options but to tackle the loose shattered unstable area affected by the rock fall. There is also loose rock, soil and gravel all over the first and second pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wish we'd read the feed back first as it turned into a scary epic journey. Personally I think this route is now dangerous especially for parties at the base of the route and on the first and last pitches. Substantial quantities of loose rock, blocks, scree situated right above the start of the route but out of sight from the base. Something may have impacted on the first belay as it shows shattering and there's only one poor wire to belay off. Better belay 10m up the next pitch. The top pitch is a bit of a horror show with few options but to tackle the loose shattered unstable area affected by the rock fall. There is also loose rock, soil and gravel all over the first and second pitches.
runwildjohn 14 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Lightning strike at the top of the route has shattered the top 15m, sending it down this and adjacent routes. Several car-size blocks are precariously hanging on - beware!
 
Show beta
βeta: Lightning strike at the top of the route has shattered the top 15m, sending it down this and adjacent routes. Several car-size blocks are precariously hanging on - beware!
GeorgeNunn 11 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Think there may have been a lighting strike at the top. Route absolutely covered in rocks, mud, grit, slime. Climbable but only enjoyable in the spirit of adventure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think there may have been a lighting strike at the top. Route absolutely covered in rocks, mud, grit, slime. Climbable but only enjoyable in the spirit of adventure.
jethro kiernan 4 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Holds and gear flake leaving the belay ledge on pitch 2 loose and mat become detached very soon, caution
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Holds and gear flake leaving the belay ledge on pitch 2 loose and mat become detached very soon, caution
FallingBrick 1 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 (Rockfax) is challenging in the wet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 (Rockfax) is challenging in the wet.
kiopo 2 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Dodgy first belay stance that was difficult to protect with loose rock, we ended up going higher. Rockfax classics guide topo isn't useful above p3, isn’t on it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dodgy first belay stance that was difficult to protect with loose rock, we ended up going higher. Rockfax classics guide topo isn't useful above p3, isn’t on it
cameron_hall 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There is a very creaky block above the first belay stance. The crack behind it is polished from lots of nut placements, but it should probably be trundled before too long.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a very creaky block above the first belay stance. The crack behind it is polished from lots of nut placements, but it should probably be trundled before too long.
Liz.Morrison 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some rockfall fron the first pitch combined with seepage lines bumps the grade of the first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some rockfall fron the first pitch combined with seepage lines bumps the grade of the first pitch.
jobangles 10 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Dubious block above first belay ledge. Should have joined first 2 pitches.. pitch 4 seemed spicy for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dubious block above first belay ledge. Should have joined first 2 pitches.. pitch 4 seemed spicy for the grade.
AlexD-L 24 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The guide we used has a correct description but incorrectly drawn line on the topo…(we confirmed this by comparison with other guides at home) but for the life of me I can't remember which was wrong...be careful?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The guide we used has a correct description but incorrectly drawn line on the topo…(we confirmed this by comparison with other guides at home) but for the life of me I can't remember which was wrong...be careful?

Logged Ascents

698 users have logged this
260 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hope

Grade: VD ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))